Tales from the Western Cape ...

Gee, I feel so far removed from civilisation. Little did I realise that Internet cafes are a rare entity in South Africa.

We left Cape Town on our bikes 6 days ago riding through the port with Table Mountain to our right and the big shipping port to our left. It kinda felt like riding through the steelworks of Wollongong. As we cycled out of the city, the uniform housing developments started to appear. I couldn't get my head around the fact that so many people live in a 'Truman Show' world - whereby life is protected within the estate and its security reinforced walls and electric fences. However, in some cases, it is only a matter of metres before you stumbled upon a township where power is scarce, conditions are abominable. I wonder what it must feel for the two groups to stare over an other's habitats - rich looking over poor; disadvantaged lives looking towards comfortable lives?

Cycling along the coast was lovely and mostly along cycle path. The Atlantic ocean looked tempting but the sheer fact that surfers were in full steamers kept me at bay. Most of the homes seemed built on the sand and the km of sand dunes were a reminder of my childhood. The days of sliding down sand hills on cardboard were so much fun but it is rare to find a sand dune on the Eastern Coast of Oz.

From coast to wine lands was a dramatic change in one day. The Stellenbosch and Franschoek wine region is absolutely spectacular. The area is picture perfect and resembled Germany or the Alps with green, lush valleys surrounded by mountains covered in pine trees. The farm homes are just adorable. The Dutch originally settled in this area and so the farmhouses are very Dutch in style - white rendered cottages with dark thatched roofs. Life looks absolutely idyllic here although I am sure that there is a lot of work that comes with tending to the vines.

We sampled several wines, both red and white and I have tried to improve my ability to describe the wines. I always wonder how people describe wines eg a hint of berry on the nose; or a strong honey scent on the nose. The classic description was when the girl at one of the wineries described the wine as 'pencil shavings on the nose'. So whenever we set down for dinner, Jon, Wendy and I swirl our glasses and try and describe the 'on the nose' effect of the wine.

We left the wine regions for drier more stark scenery of the Little Karoo which is semi-arid desert. We passed kilometres of apricot farms which were in full bloom. If it weren't for the electric fences, I would have dared to pick a few. The road was rather gravelly and my lower back was killing by the end of the 65km cycle. I did see a tortoise along the way which was a highlight. He was trying to cross the road but considering the fact that it was a major road, I wouldn't be surprised if it is still waiting. Mr Tortoise was so cute because he would close his eyes every time a car passed. We spent night #4 in Barrydale, a quiet country town with well-kept homes with beautiful gardens. The Jacaranda trees are in full bloom and are everywhere. I have never seen such gorgeous rose gardens like I have in SA.

Leaving Barrydale behind for a steady cycle climb up Tradouws Pass. The scenery was spectacular with the Langeberge Mountains surrounding us. It reminded my of Zion National Park in Utah with spectacular rock formations and the rocks seemed to be slithers of sandstone and granite and would jut out from all directions. Our end point was Swellendam where once again we stayed on the outskirts of the town. Our home for the night was connected cabins overlooking a grain silo - nice (NOT!). However, it was a good base to explore Bontebok National Park. It is a small park but we got to see Bontebok, Springbok, Red Hartebees and of course, more tortoises.

Day 6 (26th November 2010) - This was our first day of not-so-great weather as we cycled along wheat fields and gently rolling hills. We visited the southern most point of Africa, Cape Agulhus. It was blowing a gale and was a reminder just how open and exposed the area is.

Day 7 (27th November 2010) was a wet start to the day. I looked out onto the street from our gorgeous guest house room in Bredarsdorp. The roads were wet and the rain showed no signs of stopping. Joy! We left Bredarsdorp with wet weather gear from head to toe. I don't know if it made a difference as I was saturated by the end of the 20km intro cycle to the day. My feet were squidgy in my shoes and the smell of must emanating from my feet was enough to make me pass out. I have since shampooed my shoes and blow dried them. See, I knew hair dryers were versatile. The day eventually cleared and we got to see Hermanus, the whale watching coast, in its full glory or turquoise blue water and blue sky. The whales are hiding though as I have not sighted any yet.

Today, I am chilling out in Hermanus. The weather is overcast but I am glad it's not raining. We started the day with an obligatory coffee stop. The coffee here in Sth Afica has been good. Illy coffee is everywhere, so I am not craving the coffees from home like I usually do when I am away. I am meeting Jon and Wendy, my pommie buddies. Jon is half my height and lives in Brussels (but is English) and Wendy lives in the North of England. The plan for the rest of the day is lunching in Hermanus followed by the coastal walk back to our lodge. We are taking advantage of the rest day as we have 90km of cycling upon us tomorrow .....

Cape Town Saturday 20th November 2010

After what was a most uncomfortable and long flight, I made it to this gorgeous place, Cape Town. It kind of reminds me of Balmain with the beautiful terrace homes and their wrought iron trimmings. It is still early morning and the streets are quiet. I have roamed the streets since after 7am as I was in search of a SIM card. In typical Melissa fashion, it doesn't seem to be working (yet).

My driver, Sufesa, picked me up from Cape Town airport. All ran smoothly upon arrival to Capetown and I was surprised with how orderly life is here. I should rephrase that as the orderliness exists in the main centre. Immediately upon leaving the airport, I was utterly shocked by the sprawl of corrugated sheds, not fit for choocks (in my mind). And then I realised that this was a Township. What a contrast between the beautiful rendered ornate homes (bordered with high fences and bars) and the corrugated, graffitied shacks. The only thing that made me realise that people live there was the sight of children playing soccer.

I am about to meet the sister of my friend, Laurian. She is a local Capetonian and is taking me to a market at a gentrified old biscuit mill.

I still haven't met my cycle tour group yet but thin they will be arriving after lunch.