Costa d'Amalfi ...weddings, walks in the heavens and wading in the sea

It has been a crazy few days here in the Amalfi. We have sought refuge here in Atrani whilst the neighboring Amalfi gears itself up for the Festa di San Andrea and Paul and Tracy's wedding. The scenery is spectacular with cliffs soaring more than 800 meters above sea level and the rocky Amalfi Coastline curving it's way around the cliffs. The weather has not been kind to us with 38 degree days and hardly a breath of air. The clouds are in hibernation but the sun is in full swing. People search for shady respite as there is little relief in full sun. I do recall my time here on the Amalfi Coast when I was 21 year old. It was sweltering back then also and I vowed that I would never return to Italy and experience the scorching summers. Well here I am again! ;-) Paul and Tracy's wedding which brought us here was lovely. The ceremony was in the Princepessa (Municipal) gardens in Ravello. The views of Maiori and Minori, seaside towns below were stunning. Old buildings clawing their way on to rock faces. Winding roads with barely enough rough for one way traffic. Deep pink bougainvillea growing over pagolas, walls or wherever it can stretch itself out. It is such a vivid co our, amazing me of the works of mother nature. If bougainvillea could smell, it would be sheer perfection. The small, intimate wedding guests made their way on a charter bus to Torre Normana, a Norman tower perched on a rocky outcrop. Pino, our lovely host here at La Scogliera Rooms, Atrani, told me that it used to be an open air disco when he was young. As he reminisced, the smile spread across his face. The views from Torre Normanna were fab but the heat was unrelenting. There was no letting up. Less than a km down the road, the locals were watching Italia play Germany in the Euro Cup semi finals. The sirens were blaring, the odd cracker released. Mid way through Paul's speech, it was evident that Italy had won. Explosive crackers were fired and roars could be heard. How wondful it would have been to join in the revelry. We are so excited To be watching the finals in Sicily. Fingers and toes crossed that Italy wins as the energy will be electric. As crazy as it sounds, we work up at 7am with only 4 and a bit hours of sleep under our belt. We wanted to set off early to experience the Walk of the Gods, a walk from Bomerano to Positano. I have heard about the walk on a travel show and was captivated. We wound our way up the hillside to the Commune of Agerola. We climbed and and up growing more fearful of the frightful drop below. God only knows how these bus drivers negotiate the narrow, winding roads. We missed the stop at Bomerano and got the sense that we were moving over the mountain pass. When we asked the bus driver, he opened the doors, figuring out that we were there to do the walk. We backtracked to the small but quaint town of Bomerano,stocked up on supplies of water and fruit and then set off. I now know why they call it the Setieri Deglie Dei (Walk of the Gods) ...we were walking in line with the clouds, looming above the crystal,azure water of the sea below.we could have been in heaven with not a sound to be heard apart from the work horses in the distance were being led up the path by their masters. I felt so high up and the towns below looked far. In parts, the narrow, dusty dirt path with loose stones was so precarious. As charming as it is in these parts to feel one with the earth and to be experiencing the track in it's simplest form, I couldn't help but think about the chance of a fall. Just one trip on a stone and you would plunge below. I thought of Deb's cousin who died a few weeks ago, falling 60 meters to her death in the Australian. In just a flash, we can leave this world behind. Frightening! The remainder of the walk was stunning as we wound our way through forest, shaded by the sun above by rock faces, vegetable patches, olive trees hanging onto the sides of the cliff. We 8 people. With so many tourists visiting the coastline and only a few taking the magical opportunity to do this walk. I felt very blessed to be experiencing this slice of heaven for myself. We arrived in Positano at midday stopping at an alimentari ( small grocery shop) to buy a custom made panini. The lady serving us was lovely and suggested that we try a cheese which is a combination of buffalo mozzarella and buffalo ricotta. We found a spot away from the busy tourist retail lane way and sat on a step in the shade. We plonked ourselves down and devoured our panini. Such a simple, tasty pleasure :)

Mediterranean, Medieval Hilltop Towns, Ancient Greek Ruins and Buffalo Ricotta!

Yay, I have finally found a bar here in Castellabate that has WI-FI. I can't tell you how happy I am. I have developed a strong attachment to iPad and the ability to communicate instantly with the other side of the world. We are sitting here by the castle at the top of the medieval Castellabate. The sun is setting and we have moved from gelato to sundowner and coffee. I reflect on what e have seen and experienced in the last couple of days. We rented a car yesterday. It was our practice run for Sicily. Terence is typically a good driver but still felt at odds with the road when sitting on the left hand side of the car. I was shitting myself and kept holding onto the dash as he wound his way down the switchbacks from Castellabate to the beach below at Santa Maria di Castellabate. With no maps, we trusted the advice of Cirro - just follow the signs to Paestum. So this is what we did. Unlike in Australia, the roads are well marked and you can always find your way to a destination. En route to Paestum is a must see Buffalo Mozarella farm. It was well set up and we skipped breakfast to feast on the selection of sweets filled with creamy buffalo ricotta. We devoured the buffalo yoghurt with fruit compote and a buffalo ricotta cannoli. I love my cannoli and would myself an expert when it comes to good and not so good this one was average and makes me yearn even more for the canoli that await us in Sicily. Paestum, or Poseidonia as the city was originally called (in honour of Poseidon, the Greek god of the sea), was founded in the 6th century BC by Greek settlers. The three Doric temples of Paestum are said to be the best preserved Greek temples in the world and the walls around Paestum are the most complete of that period. I have walked the ruins of Pompeii but they didn't leave a marked impression on me like Paestum. The temple of Neptune (or Hera) was so incredibly intact. I felt like we were transported in time. As I enjoyed the respite of an olive tree, I could not help but wonder why the architecture of today does not impress in the same way that the temples from over 1000 years ago impress. I imagined the offerings laid down in these temples, of the goddesses adorned in jewellery, of the rituals. We returned the car unscathed and spent the afternoon at our usual spot on a coupled of flat rocks perched above a rock platform. We are away from the masses and plonk in the sea every time the sun gets the better of us. It reminds me of when I was a kid and spent countless summer days sitting on the rocks at Port beach. I am immediately relaxed. We returned the car this morning and made our way from Santa Maria di Castellabate to Punta Licosa (a point with a lighthouse). As we walked along the shore we found a friend. He was a stray dog although he a quasi collar. Perhaps at some point he had an owner but his thin frame told us that he was fending for himself. We rock jumped along the rock platform curving around the headland. Our canine friend followed even when he had to plunge in the water to get from one rock to another. He walked the 3-4 km with us to Punta Licosa, following the dirt road that hugged the coast and gave us a sneak peak into some of the finer properties. 'Ferret', our canine friend would walk a few meters ahead and then stop and look behind to make sure that we were in sight. He followed us all the way to the lighthouse. We shared concern about how we were going to let him go. When we stopped For a swim, he curled himself to sleep by Terence's bag. When we snuck away, he ran to find us and joined us back to the port of San Marco di Castellabate. The local yellow community bus turned up and we ran to catch it and give our legs a break. 'Ferret' followed us to the bus. We hopped on and looked behind as the bus started moving. The sad face of our canine friend stared at us as we wheeled away from him. His look was so sad and questioning ...'how could you leave me?', 'I trusted you'. It was such a sad departing and reminded me of the Australian fin, 'Red Dog'. As we lay on our rock afterwards, Terence could not stop thinking about Ferret. He felt so bad, like we'd abandoned a new friend who instilled his faith and trust in us. As I type, tears well up in Terence's eyes. He has been wondering whether he's ok, whether we should have found a pound for him, whether he will be looked after. I send a prayer his way ....

Mountains to the Mediterranean

We left Spoleto for our early train departure to Rome and then onwards to Agropoli.We were ready to move on to the coast for some sea air and swimming. The train journey was interesting. We were lucky to have purchased seats as others stood crammed in the aisles, some fighting over their right to a seat. The man opposite Terence looked over and said 'e normale' (this is normal). I listened to the conversation that unfolded in our carriage, something about Venezuela and the way of life over there. These strangers in our carriage gradually strike up a conversation and converses until it is our time to get off at Agropoli. I love how Italians strike up a conversation with a stranger and then appear to be long time friends. 

We are informed that there are taxis to Castellabate but the quote of 35 Euro for a short trip doesn't match what we were informed by the owner of Reidenza Tamar in Castellabate. So we opt for a bus to Santa Maria di Castellabate (the beachside town below). We then get picked up in one of those tiny 3 wheeled ute vehicles and get zipped up the mountain to Castellabate.

The sweeping views of the Mediterranean are breathtaking. Aaahhh, it feels so good to be on the coast and smell the salt in the air. Castellabate is fabulous, perched at the top of the hill overlooking the sea below. We are staying in the UNESCO World Heritage historic town which is a maze of laneways and arched doorways, where everything echoes and the sun tries to shed brightnes where it can. We have stepped onto the movie set of my favourite Italian film called 'Benvenute al Sud'. We recognise the piazza where a lot of the film took place. It is fabulous! The local mean play cards, the odd voice can be heard echoising through the laneways.

We spent the afternoon at the beach, walking 4 km down the hill. We manage to find the public beach wedged between two private beaches. The water is warm but not too warm. We then stroll along the shore to the seaside town of Santa Maria di Castellabate. The vibe is relaxed as people wonder the street with swimmers , sandals and seasalt on their skin. 

This is home foe another 4 nights. The sun is shining and the sea is calling me ....

Spoleto to Spoleto loop

It was a couple of days ago when we completed our last day of cycling. However, it seems like an eternity. The heatwave in Umbria was beyond our capacity, so we decided to skip the hotel breakfast and make an early start for our mountain ride. Our 'road book' indicated that the ride was 'very difficult', the only ride graded us such during our days of cycling in Tuscany and Umbria.

It was mostly an uphill climb. However, there was welcome shade from the pines and oaks along the roadside. It even felt slightly crisp at one point. The scenery and smell of pine forest was spectacular. We had to complete a couple of mountain passes before we were at our highest point of 1123 metres above sea level. Everything was still and hardly a car, bike or person to be seen. Thank goodness for a random open alimentari (general store) as this was where we bought our fuel for the rest of the ride - a brioche filled with crema pasticcera and a cappuccino.

Although we were challenged, the silence and remoteness of the ride was worth it. After the highest point, it was down, down, down. We passed many small signs nailed to trees which warned people not to pick truffles.As we descended, the heat increased - dry, suffocating and windless. 

We were back in Spoleto by 12.30pm and the day was ours to explore. We met two local people who opened their hearts and shared their stories. One was a woman who was of Albanian/Bosnian/Herzegova descent. She came to Italy about 16 years ago and married an Italian man 3 years ago today. We stopped in her small alumentari to buy freshly made panini and this is where she let us in to her life. Terence placed his order of a pork and cheese panini. In her eyes, his order was scarilige. No, you can't order pork with cheese - 'mai' (never!). She convinced him to replace the cheese with tomato and to top it off, she drizzled some truffle oil. When our panini were made, she directed us to a quiet park overlooking the town to sit in solace and savour our lunch. She also advised us to return that evening to buy a dolce (sweet) that is delivered on Thursday nights from Naples. We returned that evening and she shared her passion of this dolce with us - tortini con ricotta e pera (small tart of biscut base (top and bottom) filled with buffalo ricotta and fresh pear or strawberry. it was heaven. She insisted that she cut each round tortina into quarters so that we would savour it slowly, in small mouthfuls. The tortini pulled us to devour the entire tortini in one hit but we resisted the urge, taking on our Albanian friend's advice. Mum - I have kept her details so that you can have the same experience when you visit Italy in September.

Our new special person was the owner of the restuarant we chose to eat at. As we entered the empty, cool room, I though 'on no, what are we doing?'. There's nobody here. But we stayed put as this sweet 'nonna' (grandma) lit the gas stove and started preparing our simple dinner of pasta with tartufi. We weren't expecting much but it was a very pleasant surprise. The lady told us that she has had the restaurant for 55 years but sadly 'negozie' (shops) are closing all around her. Once upon a time, the streets were lined with stores but now they are dwindling off. People are struggling because of the Euro and the cost of living is too high. She tells us about the tax on housing/property which explains why people are selling left, right and centre. SHe expresses how times were better, less expensive during the times of the Italian Lira. There is sadness in her voice, in her expression, in her ody language. I can only imagine what the towns used to look like once upon a time when life was prosperous. There is despair in her voice when I ask if she thinks that Italy will ever revert to the old ways. Her answer is 'no, mi dispiacce' (No, I'm sorry).  We leave feeling saddened but grateful for our experience of meeting these two open people ....

Bevagna to Spoleto

We said our goodbyes to Fabio and Stefania, the owners of Albergo Il Chiostro di Bevagna. They were so lovely and made us feel at home. Fabio requested that I send him a postcard from home. I have no doubt that he'll tell future travelers of his friends who live in Freshwater, Sydney. Our ride yesterday was a tough one, mostly because of the distance (98km) and the soaring heat (37 degrees Celsius). If we were at home, we would never cycle in such heat but we've come here to explore the region by bike, so cycle we must. The long ride was to the town of Todi. It was ok but not fantastic. They main points worth highlighting was the stench as we rode by a genetic oil farm. My guess is that the bigs undergo genetic modification. I do know that the smell was awful even when we were upwind. Todi was ok but I got a sense that a large part of the old fortified town has been abandoned. Manly shop fronts have a 'for sale' sign in the window or are completely empty. It felt good to be back in Bevagna. We decided that we would experience the local festa food again but this time we ate at the Gaita of Santo Pietro. The food was good but not as good as the food from Gaita di Santa Maria. However, I do have to share Terence's brave culinary experience. He ordered 'lumache' (snails). He sucked those slippery suckers down his throat. I had the tiniest of tastes and it wasn't too bad. The were coated in so much oil, herbs and garlic which took away from the snail eating sensation. I watched in amazement as Terence devoured more than 20 snails. We left Bevagna this morning and had the mindset that it would be a cruisy ride. We even set off later than usual. However, the climb to our optional extra town of Todi was a bit tou on the body. Terence felt giddy when we got to the top but an espresso and brioche filled with creme patiss sorted him out ;-) We are now in the chic Umbrian hillside town of Spoleto. This is where we will call home for the last 2 nights of our cycling trip. Spoleto is quite chic with a decent selection of stores - antique, clothing, salumeria, cafes, restaurants and local food products. The clothing in Italy has been very disappointing. All the female clothing has tacky bling stitched on the front and almost everything is polyester or made in some foreign country like Bulgaria. What's with that?! I thought that I was in the fashion centre of the world. Not so from what I have experienced :( Right at the very top of the hill overlooking and protecting the town is an old fort or 'Rocca Albornoziana' built in 1359–1370. It was strategically built to protect the town from invasion. Ponte delle Torri situated behind the Rocca , is a striking 13th-century Roman aqueduct. We walked across the aqueduct and around the perimeter of the aqueduct before stopping for dinner. Our dinner choice was the best yet at a restaurant that offered great service and food. It was a fancy affair where we received amuse bouche (bite sized hors d'oeuvre) to start and the presentation was 5-star! My main was mouth watering - hand made torteloni filled with goats cheese and a puree of something (tasted a bit like chick peas) with shavings of truffle .... delicious!

Assisi to Bevagna

Unlike most, we were fortunate enough to experience the very back routes from Assisi to Bevagna. The beauty of being on a bike is that you can avoid the busy road and jump ojn a arm trail instead. As we left Assisi, our road book directed us past local streets and then onto a little road called Vialle d'olivie (road of olives). We were cycling through a canopy of olives. All you could see ahead and behind you were olive trees. It was quiet and peaceful with only the odd walker or jogger passing by. At the end of the olive road, we arrive in Spello. We only pass through this medieval town and then wind our way to the bottom where the new, modern part of the town is. Terence notices that his crank is loose and is concerned that he won't make it to Bevagna. Luckily, we are informed that there is a bike store 100 meters ahead. Phew!! The bike is fixed and we continue on at a gentle pace on mostly flat terrain. We stopped for a short black (or 'normale') as they call it in the village of Cannara. From there we followed farmhouse trails alongside the Timia River. One of the highlights was seeing a peacock eith it's feather spread open on full colorful display. I'm not sure what Italians do with peacocks but he was hanging out with the chooks and ducks. We arrived in Bevagna before midday, a first as it was only a 31 km ride. We have arrived in the town at the time of a Festa. The Festa is called Il Mercato delle Gaite. During this festival healed for 10 days in June, the whole town harks back to it's medieval past, reviving ancient trades and a half forgotten atmosphere. The festa draws its inspiration from rivalries reflected in the division of Bevagna in medieval times into four districts known as 'Gaite'. Each 'Gaite' took it's name from a church. After lunch, we decided to do an extension ride to Montefalco. Montefalco was lovely but the ride getting there was tough, not because of the terrain but because of the heat. Temperatures have been soaring to 36/37 degrees. We could not drink enough eater and thank goodness for the watering fountains in every town, as we are able to refuel. We have noticed that our arrival into many towns is met by an avenue of beautiful trees. They are the same trees in every town and have bunches of tiny yellow flowers hiding amongst their green leaves. They have the most beautiful, sweet smell. If anyone knows the name of these trees, please let me know. Bevagna is a gorgeous little town in a flood plain. It's specialty is cashmere jumpers. We have been tempted as they feel so soft. Fabio and Stefania are the owners of our Albergo - Di Chiostro di Bevagna. They are lovely. Fabiola loves a chat and insisted that we eat dinner Gaita di Santa Maria. During this festival, locals and visitors are able to eat from tables set up in hidden courtyards. Each 'Gaite' organises it's own food stall. We suspect that Fabio convinces us to go to the dinner organized by his 'Gaite'. We follow his instructions, line up outside a ticket tent, order our meal and then we are ushered inside the courtyard by a young boy who is dressed in medieval garb. He is so cute. Het sets the table, places the cutlery which is sealed in paper bags and then comes back with our food. The pasta is simply delicious and I think it it made by the locals. I order a pasta with zucchini flower and Terence orders ravioli filled with Caccio cheese. I think this cheese is a soft sheep cheese and adds a creaminess to the pasta ...delicious! It was still 28 degrees at 10.30pm. Crazy, huh!

Leaving medieval Montone for spiritual Assisi

We literally rolled out of Montone on our bikes to the valley below. The one stretch of road at the base of the valley was spectacular with fields of wild, red poppies and crops of ginormous onions that have gone to seed (or so it looks). It was an easy ride through farmland in this fertile valley of Umbria. We got confused as we arrived in the town of Umbertide, but managed to get on track. The notes seem to leave out a few landmarks when we arrive in bigger places. Some of the towns so small that we enter and exit within  a 300m distance. At the 28km mark, we had the option of an extension. We decided to take it as it was still early in the day and we didn't want to arrive in Assisi super early. However,the catch was that the ride was graded as 'very difficult'. It commenced from the town of Casa del Diavalo (House of the Devil) ...strange name for a town. It was a steady uphill climb through farmland and oak and pine forested patches. The trees provided the welcome shade protecting us from the heat in parts. It was up and up and up for about 12 km. At the halfway point, I did think of turning around, rolling down the hill and joining the 'shady' core route. But neither of us said anything, so we soldiered on with sweat dripping off us. We stopped at la Dolce Vita Ristorante for a coffee and to refill water. The man who served us was lovely and refused to let us leave with tap water in our water bottles. He filled our water bottles with his bottles of refrigerated cold spring water. Italians don't do the tap water thing. After leaving the ristorante the climbing relented and we now enjoyed some undulating. We could enjoy the views of the valley and fertile farmland below. We passed a man who was selling handmade wicker baskets o n the side of the road. He was comfortable seated beside his car whilst we copped the full sun. After a series of undulating hills, we were turned a corner to a vista of Gubbio in the distance and then it wad downhill from there. Phew!!! Our picnic lunch was in a random spot at the entrance of a private  property in the direction of Fraticciola Santa Bischina. We sat under the cypress pines with a billy goat watching over us from a wire fence running between the property and the goats' paddock. We then carried on to a hilltop town called Fraticciola Selvatica at 635 m above sea level. It had a quaint feel. Nobody was around. They were probably sleeping after pranzo. We exited the town perched on the top of the hill with a steep ride down to the valley with the dry heat whipping past our faces. I could feel the mercury on the thermometer rising as we descended at speed. Woah ...now it felt like the forecast of 34 degrees!! We were now nearing Assisi, only 16 km away.  The heat was more than worth it. I was so excited as the sunflowers were showing their yellow faces. What a truly incredible sight - a sea of yellow faces following the sun. Everywhere else, the sunflower plants had not flowered. But here it was sooo hot and dry, that we were lucky enough to get a glimpse of what the area looks like when it is in full yellow swing. The scenic ride to Assisi was gorgeous. We passed quaint little towns - Petrignano and Palazzo. We stopped in Palazzo for a gelato. The road book recommended Gelateria Oxy, so we had to stop. The gelato was creamy but the pistachio flavour still lacks the punch of the Sicilian Gelateria in Rome. One last climb up to Assisi and then we are home for the night. The views looking up to The Basilica St Francesco was fabulous. The basilica loomed over us and seemed to protect this town of 'peace'. It was 4 pm but the sun felt hotter than ever. Once again, the directions to the town were not very clear so we were getting frustrated - hot, tired, grubby. After a much awaited shower, we roamed the town. Although it is a busier tourist town, it had a lovely feel. We roamed the stores,bought some fresh black truffles (as you do!) and lost ourselves in the narrow streets. The sun doesn't set until after 9pm, so we savor the views and the charm for as long as we can.

Medieval Montone

We pushed our bikes out of the stone gates of Cortona with the smell of jasmine leading us out and the sound of bells ringing. We we left the obelisk and piazza Garibaldi behind us, our descent up the mountain was immediate. The climb was gradual and the shade from trees kept the temperature down. I was feeling good. The vineyards became pine forests lined with a deep purple wild lavender on the roadside. We rode in silence apart from the crazy chirping birds. Hardly or car or bike passed us. We then slowly rolled for about 15 km below to the fertile valley below. Tuscany became Umbria and grapes were replaced by corn and newly planted sunflowers. The little towns were just that ...little. Maybe a bar, a handful of houses. As we neared the town of Petrelle, Terence spotted 2 deer running across the field of baby sunflower plants. I wondered whether the farmers would be disappointed by the destruction of plants as the deers bounded through the crop. Petrelle was interesting. Our only reason for the stop was the need for a mid morning espresso. The woman who ran the bar seemed to be the only person around. She followed us in at a snail's pace with her long cigarette hanging out of her mouth. I ordered the usual - uno espresso e uno macchiato. She refused my macchiato as her cigarette remained in position, so I opted for an espresso. Her shiny hair was a wig and her small dog had ADD and couldn't stop jumping up on my legs. Her conversation was limited and she seemed to forget the word 'prego' every time we said thank you (grazie). The next biggish town was Trestina. Our road book had a discrepancy failing to highlight a busy roundabout, so we got lost and confused. We turned around and asked for directions. Back on track, we made our way through light industrial areas of Cornetto and Promano. Thankfully, this part of the ride was short and we soon tucked under the highway and started climbing the hill/mountain to  most of it was in the shade and the whiff of forest was magical. As we left the forest and the road stretched out, the sweat was dripping off my face and the dry heat of the day was in full force. It wahe midday. The views of the fertile valley and surrounding mountains was worth it. We stopped to take photos of the amazing onion crop in flower. We crouched amongst the onions and took happy snaps. The medieval town of Montone is fortified by a stone wall that surrounds the old town. It is perched at approx 500m above sea level and overlooks the green valleys of Umbria. Albergo Fabriccio is just outside the old town and is rather fancy for us. We are treated with a swimming pool. Lunch in Ristorante Del Verziere was fabulous - caprese salad (tomato, buffalo mozzarella, basil and olive oil), pappardelle with Ragu made from rabbit (for me) and a tagliere (I think this is what it's called. It looks like a square-ish spaghetti) with shaved truffles (for Terence). The smell of truffle wafting from Terence's dish was incredible. He was in truffle ('tartufo') heaven! After lunch, we wondered through the narrow, winding medieval streets of Montone. It is truly like stepping back in time. I sometimes feel like we are characters in a fairytale. How can this place be so? How can it be that everyday people live amongst the age old buildings. Every door looks like a secret passage. Every cobblestoned alley tells a story. Everything is quiet apart from the men who are playing an Italian card game in the main piazza. They shout and keep score. Aahhh, the simple pleasures of life ....

Leaving Montepulciano through the mountains into the valley and back up the hill to Cortona

We said our goodbye to Montepulciano as we rolled out of the stone 'porta' (door) and made our passed vineyards and olive groves. Apart from the birds chirping, there was not a sound to be heard. Where are they. My guess is that the locals are still in bed. In the valley we passed fields of wheat, corn and sunflowers. Oh how glorious this place must look when the sunflowers are in full bloom. Of all the fields we cycle by, I only spotted one yellow sunflower greeting the sun above. It was probably the first of the season. The others are perhaps 2 weeks away from showing their yellow faces. We gradually climbed out of the valley only to quickly descend to the beautiful shoreline of Lago Trasimeno (Lake Trasimeno). We ended up on a single lane dirt track skirting our way alongside the lake. I kept checking in with Terece to see if we were on the right path. It just seemed so remote. We stopped in the tiny town/ village of Borghetto to buy some bread and a tomato. The bread was rock hard and god only knows why, but they don't add salt to it so it is super bland. What's going on ...I thought I was in Italy! After Borghetto, we decided to take the extra long extension route starting in Riscovello where the Battle of Trasimeno took place in 217 BC. Hannibal's army defeated an army of Romans. I am relying on Terence for this info as the history stuff just goes over my head. From here we started to climb. I am glad that i suggested a wonder through the lovely town of Tuoro with locals in full swing - chatting in the piazza, gathering outside the pasticceria (where i enjoyed a sugared donut filled with vanilla crema pasticcera and Terence enjoyed a chocolate croissant)and catching up wih friends in the local cafes and bars. The first of 3 climbs was 6 km. The ascent was gradual but the sun was scorching. Thankfully, it is dry heat. At the end of the climb, we stopped for a picnic lunch at the top of the mountain pass in a pine forest. We had the basics - bread, tomato, pecorino cheese and prosciutto. We then rolled down the mountain taking in the beautiful views of the Castello Pierle (Pierle Castle).The obligatory espresso stop was a must in the tiny 'blink and you'll miss it' town of Mercatale. Not to a soul was to be seen. The espresso made little difference to our energy levels as we commenced our second climb. This one was supposed to be 5km but felt like more. It was merciless! I just wanted to stop but the distraction of wildflowers and cherry trees with fruit kept me going.The best part about cycling uphill is the downhill reward. The views we stunning and the rustic farmhouses dotted the mountain side. We stopped at the bottom to sample some maraschino cherries and then joined the core route map to our hotel (Hotel Italia) in Cortona. However, the hills were not finished with us for the day. We had 3 more km before reaching the hill town of Cortona. Yay, the cycling is over and we are now in Cortona. It has a lovely feel with narrow streets lined with shops and cafes. Local flags depicting the local commune (municipality) fly above doorways. We are sipping only the last of our Campari sodas before we start to wonder. The one thing I will remember most about today is the scent of jasmine. It followed us everywhere and greeted us as we arrived in Cortona among many of the smaller towns. Sweet, delicate and subtle. If only could bottle it!!!

Cycling from Montepulciano - La Foce - Bagno Vignoni - Pienza - Montepulciano

We put our detailed ' road book' to the test today. Terence was the map reader with his map startegically placed in a clear map bag on his handlebar. I was the bike computer reader and operator. This proved to be a difficult task as the bike comput has been temperamental - the magnet has been turning around the spoke and not registering any distance or the other bit attached to the frame has moved away from the magnet. Whatever malfunction is going on does not help the situation. Although we think that we may have figured it out. Despite the bike computer hiccup, the rest has been rather smooth sailing. The 'road book' has been quite easy to follow and we managed to get through day 1 without getting lost. We left Montepulciano quite early - 830 am seems to be 'early' in these parts. The sky was blue, air was dry and crisp and sun was shining. We could not have asked for better conditions. Although there is a direct route from Pienza, our road book took us off the beaten track. Soon after we set off we were riding on a gravel road. In Italy they call this 'strada bianca'. As we made our way along the gravel road towards The towns of Cassia and Contignano, we admired the fields that rolled on forever - wildflowers everywhere and windbreaks of cypress trees. It's hard to believe that you ride by castles and farm houses that have been here for almost an eternity. And the locals don't seem to blink an eye. Our first short stop was at Bagno Vignoni - natural thermal springs which is now a hydrotherapy/thermal spa retreat. A local told me that the pools were closed but we still managed to dip our feet in the warm thermal water in what looked like thermal troughs. We sat down with our feet soaking in the sulphur smelling warm water and admired the views of the valley and fortified towns in the distance. We left Bagno Vignoni and made our way to Pienza. The ride was magnificent. The road side red poppies turned into fields of dotted red. Photos cannot capture the scene, so you'll just have to believe me. Yellow canola flowers shower sections of land into what I would describe as a paintbrush that has been dipped in both yellow and green paint. Every farmhouse or agriturismo (farm stay) tells a thousand stories. They look so old and quaint and I wish that I could see what they looked like inside. The church bells are ringing upon our midday arrival in the renaissance town of Pienza - so romantic and so fantasy-like.Pienza is a UNESCO world heritage site with gorgeous cobblestone streets, salumi and pecorino cheese shops everywhere. We were overwhelmed by the smell of cheese. We have a small stash of pecorino that has been coming with us on our outings and tides us over when we are peckish. I enjoy an awesome tipico Italian lunch of panini with prosciutto, cheese and sweet tasting tomato with a macchiato and a apricot filled croissant. I asked for a ricotta filled croissant but they must have heard ' albicocca' rather than 'ricotta'. Oh well :) we chat to a German guy who is also traveling by bike. However, he is doing the hard yards! He has cycled from Germany with all his belongings in panniers. I take my hat off to him! After lunch, we wonder through the charming town, have a little look-see in the shops and take in the views of the Val d'Orcia. We have 22 Km of cycling before we are back in Montepulciano. As we get closer to 'home', we can see it perched up on the hill. It truly is stunning. I admire the old tone from the back of it and I especially love the church that sits in the valley below Montepulciano. I'll have to find out the name .... My eyes are failing me so time for me to call it a day. Tomorrow we are leaving Montepulciano for Cortona. As lame as it sounds, I am tempted to find Frances Mayes house in Cortona. I am reading her book at the moment and I'm thankful for her detailed stories of this magical place. Buona notte x

A warm up cycle to Monticchiello

I awoke this morning to the sound of turtle doves and swallows singing. The sun was shining through the open door sized window. I had to getup although the rest of the town was well and truly sleeping. We met Giacamo, a local who was instructed to introduce us to our bikes and go through the spiel. He seemed pretty casual but assured us that the cycling instructions were very easy to follow. It certainly didn't look like that when we studied them a few weeks ago. After the standard arguments of trying to set the wireless bike computer, we set off for a trial bike ride to Monticchiello. It was a bit scary when we set off as the cars just zipped by. I had to wonder whether we had made the right decision to cycle in Italy. However, as we followed the signs to Monticchiello, the roads became more remote and we were swept away by the Tuscan hills covered in a patchwork quilt of olive groves and vineyards. The area has been drenched by rain in the preceding few weeks, so the countryside is so green and the wildflowers are everywhere - pink, yellow, red, white, lilac. The dandelions are the biggest you have ever seen. Imagine all the wishes that you could make by blowing on just one of them .... Amongst the rolling hills is the odd sprinkle of farmhouse ...stone walls, gravel path lined in lavender bushes and shutters on the windows. After about 8 Km, we see Montichiello in the distance. The old town wall gives it away. We swoop down winding roads and then climb to the gorgeous 13th century medieval village in the heart of the Val d'Orcia, which origins lose themselves in the time. The town is tiny with only a handful of streets. We wonder through as quietly as possible as there is hardly a sound to be heard. A lovely old lady in a linen shop asked in Italian whether we were married. I said no, so she then suggested that we could return for a wedding in the town's church. Typical nonna ...'fancy not being married'. We stopped at the alimentari (corner store) for some bread and then started to make our way back to Montepulciano. Terence suggested that we stop at the of the hill and make our picnic lunch. We had bought a tomato, pecorino and a filetto of cured meat that looked sort of similar to prosciutto. As I focused on cutting the cured meat with the kick ass pocket knife, Terence had something else on his mind. I was about to start eating on my hard crust sandwich when a diamond ring appeared. I jumped out of my skin as was not expecting it. I was fairly sure that it would happen in Italy but my guess was Castellabate on the Cilento coast. Terence felt that it was the perfect setting and wanted to ask me whilst I was doing what I love most - exploring the world by bike. Wow, I am engaged ... feels surreal. Sadly, there is no one here to have a celebratory drink with us but nonetheless we are in our 'local' bar - Terence enjoying a beer and me enjoying rossi vino di Nobile. Sorry for the late posting - my iPad battery went flat yesterday.

Magical Montepulciano

Yesterday was another great day in Rome visiting the Colosseum, the Roman Forum and the Vatican Museum. The line for the Vatican Museum was fairly smooth sailing compared to memory from 15 years ago. I realize that my memories of Rome from then are very faded as the Vatican Museum and the Cistine Chspel was nothing like I remembered. Or maybe age makesbyou appreciate things more and take in the experience. The 3 highlights for us were experiencing our first stand-up coffee at a bar on Via del Corso and admiring the panoramic views of the entire city of Rome from the Garibaldi Monument. I am hooked on the concept of standing at a bar, ordering your espresso or macchiato (if you dare to have some milk!), sinking it back, standing shoulder to shoulder with a local and listening to all the passionate conversations going on. This has become our routine too ... We left Roma Trastevere this morning by train and made our way out of the city to greener pastures and fields of wild red poppies. The urban landscape soon became farmland and green rolling hills. The tall, cramped apartment buildings became farmhouses with terracotta roofs and old clay-colored rendered walls. The experience was great until the ticket lady arrived and fined us 10 € for not validating our ticket beforehand. So much for making an exception! We arrived in Chiusi and then found the bus to Montepulciano waiting outside. The bus driver seemed to take his time meandering around bends and allowing us to soak in the sheer beauty and lushness of this region. It is so picturesque and all we see is a jigsaw of various shades of green - grape vines perfectly aligned in rows, olive trees laid out in perfect symmetry, cherry trees fruiting, fig trees ready for the ripening. I love this place already!!! After a 20km gently rolling bus ride, we arrive in Montepulciano. The bus driver points up a cliff and indicates that our accommodation is up there. We enter a tunnel and find one lift after another until we get to the top. From there, we walk uphill some more. A sandstone arch lies ahead of us. It has just rained and the place had an airy mystical chill to it. As we walked through, it felt like we were stepping into a medieval fairytale. I cannot describe how breathtaking this place is. It oozes charm and everything is so charmingly old. Terence says that if won the lotto, he would buy a place here. I am not complaining! Like the author Frances Mayes, I can truly understand how her purchase of a 'holiday' home turned into home for the next 20+ years. We have walked the cobblestone streets of the old quarter and with every turn of the head, we are captivated - by the views, the architecture, the grand arched doors with brass handles that tell a story, the gorgeous boutiques, the azaleas and geraniums hanging from window sills, the local characters. It wasn't until we booked Osteria del Conte for dinner (thanks Chris Pearce for the recommendation! I have a reallly good feeling about it) that Terence remembered that it was our 2 year anniversary. Both of us forgot this morning ... doh! And what atruly memorable anniversary! As we walk down little alleys, we are blessed with the most incredible views of the valley below. It is picture perfect Tuscany. In fact, I never realized that it would be this stunning. It is clean and crisp and green, a real contrast to Rome which is grunge, dirty with an element of seediness. Don't get me wrong, I love Rome but this place is heaven. We are now sitting at a local enoteca (wine bar) passing the time and watching the day come to a close. The locals continue to enter the bar and gossip with the staff. We are the only customers so are savouring every second. We are sitting outside at the intersection of 3 narrow streets. The conversation of locals echoes and we privy to it all. Welcome to Italy where no conversation is kept quiet! Until tomorrow ...buona sera xx every second.

Roman Holiday

Relatively speaking, it was smooth sailing (or flying!) to Rome, although it was a close call in connecting with our Singapore to Rome flight. We had to run from our gate and held the plane up as we and our luggage were transferred. Rome Fiumincino airport was a bit of a loose arrangement. We were waived throughout Customs with a 'Go, Go!'. No stamp, no scan, niente!!! Leaving the airport with not a single security check seemed a little odd but nonetheless we made our way to the train station and caught our first regional train to Roma Trastevere. I had forgotten to print directions to our B&B (more like an apartment), so used directions that I had printed to lead us to 'Siciliana Connoleria' ( a store selling yummy sweet ricotta-filled Cannoli). After a short walk from the train station, we arrived at Suites Trastevere, rang the doorbell and Marco let us in indicating 'level 3'. Dragging our luggage up the marble staircase was tougher than expected so we crammed into the wrought iron cage lift with manually operated doors. We ate a second breakfast of pastries and Marco's nonna's chocolate cake and then mapped our Roman walking journey for the day. The start of our exploratory walk was at the Porta Portese flea market which sprawled for blocks and blocks. The roads are closed to allow for the market. In essence, it is stale and stalls selling mostly 'made in China' rubbish but the people seemed robe flocking. If I lived here, I would be buying the antique and mid century furniture. There was plenty on display! As we walked up Viale Trastevere, we admired the old apartment buildings with shutter-framed windows and terracotta pots filled with geraniums hanging from the window ledge. The buildings were showing signs of age but this only added character. The smell of coffee as you walk by is enough to lure you in every time. Little old Italian men sit outside with their espresso to shoot the breeze and 'passa tempo' (pass time). I found it funny that Marco advised us to catch a tram rather than walk, indicating that Romans would not be walking to the city centre. However, before we knew it, we were crossing Ponte Garibaldi (Graibaldi Bridge) to the Jewish Quarter. If you stuck to the main street (Via Arenula), you would have missed the experience. But with a right turn into Via Santa Maria di Planto, we were 'wowed' by the narrow cobblestone street, cafes and people socialising. We stopped for a quick lunch and watched as fathers tried to cope with the whinging toddlers, couples fought and others gesticulated with their hands. After 16 years since blast visit, nothing seems familiar to me. Did I visit the piazzas last time? Campo de Fiori is a lively piazza surrounded by cafes and then filled with a buzzing market in the centre. This was my favorite gathering place. The stalls were mostly produce and food including pasta of a million varieties, formaggio, cold meats (the biggest mortadella we've ever seen - about 3 ft long and 30 cm wide) and the fruit stalls selling cups of juicy cut mixed fruit. Piazza Navona - a lovely piazza with a fountain at it's centre. Art fills it's core and I have to admit that I was tempted by an oil painting of Rome. I'll think about it today. The lane ways surrounding the piazza are truly incredible. Black uneven cobblestones, apartments looming over with either laundry hanging across from an apartment building on one side to an apartment building on the other side. Bright pink bouganvillia sprawls it's way across walls and gives every building a facelift. I love it! Coming back to Rome has been a good thing for me. I don't recall being amazed by the grandeur and age of buildings during my last visit. The Pantheon is truly an incredible building both inside and out. The 9 m wide hole in the cupola allows sun and the other elements to enter the space within. The volume on the pitied of the building are so mammoth. You always 'up' in Rome as so much of the detail is staring at you from above. I am most impressed by the details at the top of the columns. I think these may be called italics. With every turn of a corner, we are in awe and delight - the Fontana di Trevi, the spanish steps with all and sundry sitting, reading, talking and just taking it all in. Our legs were aching but with each step, we came closer to something that could not be missed. And we could not have picked a better way to end our day than with an impromptu stumble upon St Peters Basilica. It wasn't on our list for the day but we were pulled towards it. It was 6.30 pm and so serene and peaceful. We were blessed to experience this scared place with minimal people and quietness. My camera battery was flat so I had no choice but to breathe it in and wonder how this came to creation. The marble statues with the finest detail down to the veins in the hands, the frescoes, the ornate ceilings with gold leaf sculptured flowers, the enormous cupolas. Walking back to Trastevere was tiring but satisfying. What a day! The only drawback so far is the food. Our restaurant recommendation in Trastevere called 'Ivo' was a let down - undercooked gnocchi, sour Ragusa and wine that barely passed as wine. It makes me realize how I am truly spoilt with quality Italian food at home. Today we plan to visit a deli and select a variety of charcuterie for our lunch. Surely we can't go wrong with that. Time to step back in time .... Ciao for now xo