Sunday, June 17, 2012

Leaving medieval Montone for spiritual Assisi

We literally rolled out of Montone on our bikes to the valley below. The one stretch of road at the base of the valley was spectacular with fields of wild, red poppies and crops of ginormous onions that have gone to seed (or so it looks). It was an easy ride through farmland in this fertile valley of Umbria. We got confused as we arrived in the town of Umbertide, but managed to get on track. The notes seem to leave out a few landmarks when we arrive in bigger places. Some of the towns so small that we enter and exit within  a 300m distance. At the 28km mark, we had the option of an extension. We decided to take it as it was still early in the day and we didn't want to arrive in Assisi super early. However,the catch was that the ride was graded as 'very difficult'. It commenced from the town of Casa del Diavalo (House of the Devil) ...strange name for a town. It was a steady uphill climb through farmland and oak and pine forested patches. The trees provided the welcome shade protecting us from the heat in parts. It was up and up and up for about 12 km. At the halfway point, I did think of turning around, rolling down the hill and joining the 'shady' core route. But neither of us said anything, so we soldiered on with sweat dripping off us. We stopped at la Dolce Vita Ristorante for a coffee and to refill water. The man who served us was lovely and refused to let us leave with tap water in our water bottles. He filled our water bottles with his bottles of refrigerated cold spring water. Italians don't do the tap water thing. After leaving the ristorante the climbing relented and we now enjoyed some undulating. We could enjoy the views of the valley and fertile farmland below. We passed a man who was selling handmade wicker baskets o n the side of the road. He was comfortable seated beside his car whilst we copped the full sun. After a series of undulating hills, we were turned a corner to a vista of Gubbio in the distance and then it wad downhill from there. Phew!!! Our picnic lunch was in a random spot at the entrance of a private  property in the direction of Fraticciola Santa Bischina. We sat under the cypress pines with a billy goat watching over us from a wire fence running between the property and the goats' paddock. We then carried on to a hilltop town called Fraticciola Selvatica at 635 m above sea level. It had a quaint feel. Nobody was around. They were probably sleeping after pranzo. We exited the town perched on the top of the hill with a steep ride down to the valley with the dry heat whipping past our faces. I could feel the mercury on the thermometer rising as we descended at speed. Woah ...now it felt like the forecast of 34 degrees!! We were now nearing Assisi, only 16 km away.  The heat was more than worth it. I was so excited as the sunflowers were showing their yellow faces. What a truly incredible sight - a sea of yellow faces following the sun. Everywhere else, the sunflower plants had not flowered. But here it was sooo hot and dry, that we were lucky enough to get a glimpse of what the area looks like when it is in full yellow swing. The scenic ride to Assisi was gorgeous. We passed quaint little towns - Petrignano and Palazzo. We stopped in Palazzo for a gelato. The road book recommended Gelateria Oxy, so we had to stop. The gelato was creamy but the pistachio flavour still lacks the punch of the Sicilian Gelateria in Rome. One last climb up to Assisi and then we are home for the night. The views looking up to The Basilica St Francesco was fabulous. The basilica loomed over us and seemed to protect this town of 'peace'. It was 4 pm but the sun felt hotter than ever. Once again, the directions to the town were not very clear so we were getting frustrated - hot, tired, grubby. After a much awaited shower, we roamed the town. Although it is a busier tourist town, it had a lovely feel. We roamed the stores,bought some fresh black truffles (as you do!) and lost ourselves in the narrow streets. The sun doesn't set until after 9pm, so we savor the views and the charm for as long as we can.

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