We left Fort Cochin along a gravel bumpy road and set for another coastal ride The children were so welcoming as we cycled along the narrow dirt paths. Many were on their way to school and were so excited to greet us. Even the adults give us a 'welcome'. As we cycle south along the coast we pass fishing village after fishing village. Men sit there under shady canopies freeing their fishing nets from tangles. Their nets are super fine and it looks as though it would take an entire day to de-tangle. During one of our drink stops in a buzzing little town, we notice a guy on a motor bike with a giant camera lens pointing in our direction. It turns out that he is a journalist from a local newspaper and is keen to write a story about our trip. Many Keralans cannot understand why we are travelling by bike and the assumption is that we cannot afford to travel by any other means.
As we cycle toward Alleppey, the star5ting point for our backwater boat trip, we are surrounded by canals and waterways. The last 100m of our 60+ km cycle is off road. We carry our bikes down some steps and then straddle the canal. It is simply unreal! We arrive at our final destination with a welcoming fresh grape drink. Our home for the night is a gorgeous thatched hut surrounded by palms and other topical plants along the waterway.
Terence and I decide to take a tuk tuk into the main town of Alleppey. There are few tourists to be seen as this is where the locals shop. We find a couple of cotton shirts for Terence but in typical Indian fashion, one turns out to be polyester ...just what you need when its above 30 degrees Celsius and over 80 % humidity.
We leave Alleppey the next day after stocking up on alcohol for the night. Buying alcohol is quite an experience. The doors to the liquor store opened at 10am but men were waiting in line from at least 9.30am. When we arrived, they ushered us in through another door ...special treatment for foreigners. Beer and spirits of various sizes were stacked on wooden shelves in a cramped space. I grabbed a vanilla vodka for something new and off we went to meet our houseboat. They turned up right in front of our waterfront accommodation. Bikes and all were thrown on the more than comfortable converted rice barges. We spent the next 18 hours cruising the waterways which was nothing but tranquil and relaxing. Locals living by the waterside were observed doing their laundry. Women slap their laundry against the rocks ...not sure how clean the clothes get. It really makes me appreciate my washing machine and even the scrubbing brush which I have been using for hand washing.
The next morning, our bikes are taken off the boats and we set off for our longest and final cycle ride - 104 km in total. Although the sun is beating down and I have signs of prickly heat on my legs, it is well worth it as we hug the coastline. The water is looking bluer and the scene is so idyllic with tropical palm trees, fisherman, fishing nets, canoes and warm, welcoming children. Our lunch stop is out of this world and so off the beaten track. It is at a palm-tree lined beach called Thangassery, located near the city of Kollam (or Quillon). The sand is whiter than what we have seen so far and there are break walls every few hundred metres. The red and white light house in the distance may be the same one that was featured in Terence's latest surf magazine, 'Surfing Life'. Terence is the only one in the group who braves the water and goes for a body bash. Yes, there is surf. In fact, they are perfect surfing waves for me. Lunch is a treat too with mussels, prawns and calamari cooked as dry curries with chapati, pineapple yogurt curries, Porrama (a popular Keralan bread) and more. We certainly haven't gone hungry on this trip.
After enduring extremely hot and humid conditions and negotiating sections of highway (where there is always so much going on), we arrive at Varkala, a small hippie community with an amazing cliff top overlooking Varkala Beach, a great surf beach with a strong rip (not suitable for the beginner swimmer).
Yesterday morning, Terence was approached by a local guy as he checked out the surf. The guy happened to have a surfboard which Terence rented from him for 2 hours. His surf was cut short after snapping the nose of the board. The local guy was not happy, despite the fact that the board had previously been snapped in this spot (as the repair work was evident). After lots of arguing and disappointment, the surf cost Terence about $50 as the guy wanted him to pay for the damage. Despite the disappointing end to the morning, the day ended perfectly with an incredible sunset - a huge red ball setting at the horizon with the breaking waves in the foreground. We were comfortably positioned with our coffees at Cafe Del Mar and couldn't have been more chilled.
Yoga - a journey of finding out 'who you are' - is how may morning started. Four of us sat in a cool room in the upstairs of a building with a breeze coming through. All I could hear was the waves breaking and I could not have picked a more beautiful way to bid farewell to Kerala and India. I now understand why people come here seeing spiritual enlightenment. For me, it was just a taste but I certainly feel calm and light.
Friday, October 14, 2011
Sunday, October 9, 2011
Coconuts and chilling out in Cochin, Kerala, INDIA
So much has happened since the last blog post. We left Ooty on Friday morning all kitted out in warmer layers. It was a fresh start as we cycled amongst pine trees, wattle and eucalypts (big, big eucalypts). Every now and then, the smell of eucalyptus oil would waft by. As we cycled mostly down hill, we were graced by the tea covered slopes of the Western Ghats (hills). Women walked along their roads in their colourful saris with woven baskets on their heads. The baskets were for carrying freshly picked tea. The tea is planted in a similar style to a patchwork quilt. Taller trees are interspersed amongst them to offer shade and the perfect growing conditions. As we get to the bottom of the 24 km descent, the layers of clothing are stripped off and the temperature soars. Welcome to tropical Kerala. Blankets of green, lush palm trees surround us. We stop for lunch and receive our first taste of Keralan food. Everything is cooked in coconut oil - tasty but not great for those who are watching their waist line.
After lunch, we say goodbye to our bikes,. For the first time during this trip, we have a bus tranfer to our destination of Guruvayoor. At first I think 'it would have been good to cycle'. However, after experiencing the crazy, mayhem traffic from the comfy seat of the van, I am glad that I'm not amongst it. Our driver is playing car dodge ball and has so many near misses, it's incredible!
Guruvayoor is a non-tourist town known for its temple. Keralans come to this temple on a pilgrimage and many sleep overnight. As we made our way past the shop-lined boulevard towards the temple, we passed many people sprawled on the pavement. Some of them slept on nothing more than a few sheets of newspaper. Vish (our guide) tells us that some of them can afford to stay in a hotel but choose to sleep on the pavement as a sign of devotion.
The highlights of Guruvayoor were the 2 short rides (one in the morning and one at night). Joseph, our ride leader, led us down narrow lane ways and pot-holed roads. I kept thinking to myself 'how do they discover these routes when they look as though they wouldn't even be on a map'. Our morning ride led us to the beach to see the fishing boats. As we cycled there, we passed many fish mongers riding or scootering along the little back streets and calling out to inform the neighbourhood that they had arrived to sell fish. The beach was great and gross. The fishing boats looked truly idyllic but we had to watch where we placed our feet to avoid stepping on human faeces. Disgusting, I know!! But hey, this is India! Our evening ride was at sunset and led us to the most beautiful bright yellow Orthodox Christian Church. The Church is devoted to St Dominic (Doubting Dominic). If I recall correctly, Dominic questioned that Jesus rose from the dead (hence the 'doubting').
We left Guruvayoor this morning and experienced the most fascinating day. Although the sun and humidity was relentless, it was well worth it. Almost the entire 86 km cycling journey was along quiet village back roads. Sometimes it feels like we are cycling through people's private daily lives. However, we are met with welcoming greetings - 'hello', 'good morning' and 'welcome'. After about 25 km, we hit the coast. Thick forests of palm trees surrounded us from here on. We were graced with the cliche banding palm tree over the sand. Terence climbed 3/4 of the way along one of them like a little monkey. This area is certainly wealthier as the saris are brighter, more beautiful and the homes are painted in vivid colours (lime greens, tangerine orange and sky blue). So many of the homes look like palaces but the smaller shanty-looking homes still seemed to be scattered in between.
Our first ferry crossing was before lunch, where we crossed the river on a barge-looking boat to Vypen Island. The sea stayed to our right and the shade and slight breeze took the edge off. However, every time we stopped the sweltering heat could be felt. For the first time in my life, I developed a heat rash above my knees. Thankfully, lunch offered us some respite. We stopped t the Baywatch Cafe (yes, Baywatch!) which overlooked Cherai Beach. The water wasn't the blue that we are used to in Oz but it was the bluest we have seen so far. We we went for a dip, however, I wasn't daring enough to submerge my head and risk picking up an infection. Terence went for a bit of a body bash though and seems to be fighting fit!
The last 30 km after lunch was lots of fun. We first skidded though sandy paths along the beach side. Many in the group fell off as they didn't gain enough momentum as they pushed through the sand. After about 10km, we took a left hand turn away from the beach and cycled through villages with the most diving estuary lined with tropical palm trees on both sides. Simply stunning!
One more ferry journey and we arrive in Cochin! We were packed on the ferry like sardines and there was hardly space to move as the bikes, people, motorbikes, cars and trucks all assumed their positions. I wondered whether we would cross the river safely but alas, we are here!
Wow, the vibe in Cochin is so chilled and this place is definitely set of for tourists. It is the first time that we have seen shops that cater to the Western palate ... clothing, jewellery, antiques and collectibles, linen, quilt covers. We had a quick look-see before dinner and already Terence has succumbed and bought an antique wooden spice bowl. Shopping is on the agenda for tomorrow and I have no doubt that it will be deadly on the credit card. Farewell to my bike for now as my feet prepare to pound the pavements.
After lunch, we say goodbye to our bikes,. For the first time during this trip, we have a bus tranfer to our destination of Guruvayoor. At first I think 'it would have been good to cycle'. However, after experiencing the crazy, mayhem traffic from the comfy seat of the van, I am glad that I'm not amongst it. Our driver is playing car dodge ball and has so many near misses, it's incredible!
Guruvayoor is a non-tourist town known for its temple. Keralans come to this temple on a pilgrimage and many sleep overnight. As we made our way past the shop-lined boulevard towards the temple, we passed many people sprawled on the pavement. Some of them slept on nothing more than a few sheets of newspaper. Vish (our guide) tells us that some of them can afford to stay in a hotel but choose to sleep on the pavement as a sign of devotion.
The highlights of Guruvayoor were the 2 short rides (one in the morning and one at night). Joseph, our ride leader, led us down narrow lane ways and pot-holed roads. I kept thinking to myself 'how do they discover these routes when they look as though they wouldn't even be on a map'. Our morning ride led us to the beach to see the fishing boats. As we cycled there, we passed many fish mongers riding or scootering along the little back streets and calling out to inform the neighbourhood that they had arrived to sell fish. The beach was great and gross. The fishing boats looked truly idyllic but we had to watch where we placed our feet to avoid stepping on human faeces. Disgusting, I know!! But hey, this is India! Our evening ride was at sunset and led us to the most beautiful bright yellow Orthodox Christian Church. The Church is devoted to St Dominic (Doubting Dominic). If I recall correctly, Dominic questioned that Jesus rose from the dead (hence the 'doubting').
We left Guruvayoor this morning and experienced the most fascinating day. Although the sun and humidity was relentless, it was well worth it. Almost the entire 86 km cycling journey was along quiet village back roads. Sometimes it feels like we are cycling through people's private daily lives. However, we are met with welcoming greetings - 'hello', 'good morning' and 'welcome'. After about 25 km, we hit the coast. Thick forests of palm trees surrounded us from here on. We were graced with the cliche banding palm tree over the sand. Terence climbed 3/4 of the way along one of them like a little monkey. This area is certainly wealthier as the saris are brighter, more beautiful and the homes are painted in vivid colours (lime greens, tangerine orange and sky blue). So many of the homes look like palaces but the smaller shanty-looking homes still seemed to be scattered in between.
Our first ferry crossing was before lunch, where we crossed the river on a barge-looking boat to Vypen Island. The sea stayed to our right and the shade and slight breeze took the edge off. However, every time we stopped the sweltering heat could be felt. For the first time in my life, I developed a heat rash above my knees. Thankfully, lunch offered us some respite. We stopped t the Baywatch Cafe (yes, Baywatch!) which overlooked Cherai Beach. The water wasn't the blue that we are used to in Oz but it was the bluest we have seen so far. We we went for a dip, however, I wasn't daring enough to submerge my head and risk picking up an infection. Terence went for a bit of a body bash though and seems to be fighting fit!
The last 30 km after lunch was lots of fun. We first skidded though sandy paths along the beach side. Many in the group fell off as they didn't gain enough momentum as they pushed through the sand. After about 10km, we took a left hand turn away from the beach and cycled through villages with the most diving estuary lined with tropical palm trees on both sides. Simply stunning!
One more ferry journey and we arrive in Cochin! We were packed on the ferry like sardines and there was hardly space to move as the bikes, people, motorbikes, cars and trucks all assumed their positions. I wondered whether we would cross the river safely but alas, we are here!
Wow, the vibe in Cochin is so chilled and this place is definitely set of for tourists. It is the first time that we have seen shops that cater to the Western palate ... clothing, jewellery, antiques and collectibles, linen, quilt covers. We had a quick look-see before dinner and already Terence has succumbed and bought an antique wooden spice bowl. Shopping is on the agenda for tomorrow and I have no doubt that it will be deadly on the credit card. Farewell to my bike for now as my feet prepare to pound the pavements.
Thursday, October 6, 2011
Snooty Ooty, India
It is day 6 of our Southern Indian cycling holiday and it has not disappointed us one little bit. This is the first time I have had access to internet facilities, so I will try and summarise the blur of sensory overload which we have experienced in the past 6 days.
We arrived at Bangalore airport at 10pm. I was already exhausted from the flights and knew that we had another 5 hour wait before our cycling group arrived from the UK. We had sussed out some sleeper chairs in the airport and were going to take a few cat naps during the long wait. In the meantime, we had to withdraw money from the ATM and were having troubles with the one ATM in the arrivals hall. So I was advised to use one of the four ATMs outside. So off we shuffle to the ATM and manage to withdraw some money. Phew, our financials were sorted and now it was just a matter of resting. Well, not so!! They would not let us back inside the arrivals hall so we spent the next 5 hours waiting for the group outside the airport. 'Welcome to India!'
At 4am, we were transferred from Bangalore airport to Mysore - a 3 1/2 hour transfer. My eyes were popping out of my head by the time we had arrived.
Mysore seems like so long ago but was a fun, crazy introduction to a big Indian town of over a million people. Our first cycling day started and ended cycling through the hectic, non law-abiding traffic. There is so much craziness going on that you just have to brave it and force your way through the mayhem of tuk tuk drivers, street food stalls, motorbikes, animal carts, goats being herded and all the rest. It was so much fun but there is no way that an Australian tour company would expose its customers to such hectic traffic conditions. All the more reason to love India :)
The cycling so far has been entirely door-to-door and it has truly been a once-in-a-lifetime experience. There is no way that you would be exposed to the remote back roads that we have had the experience of cycling along. Each village has its own character and there is so much going on from clothes washing in the rivers and streams; the drying of sheets laid flat on patches of grass; thin but strong men steering their ox to pull carts laden with sand or bamboo or stones ; groups of women dressed in their colourful saris; men gathered to talk shop.
The colours of India are just so vibrant. I have never seen such colour rich markets especially the sections which sell dyes. The dyes are the brightest of bright colours - purples, yellows, greens, reds. They display them in bowls and then shape the powdered dyes in a conical shape. Simply stunning.
There has been a festival in this region throughout the past week and so we have been lucky enough to see colourful processions; cars/tucks/tuk tuks/bikes adorned with banana tree leaves and long garlands of marigold and other festivities.
Yesterday was my birthday and I was blessed and frightened by a morning sighting of a wild lone male tusker in Bandipur National Park. We cycled off from our accommodation into the National Park for 30+ kilometres. We happened to be cycling uphill and around a bend when we saw the elephant. He wasn't happy as he raised his trunk and trumpeted. I was scared beyond belief and the thought of being charged by an elephant on my birthday kept flashing through my mind. My legs pedalled so fast that they must have looked like a blur. My birthday ended with a visit to a local orphanage run by a Swiss woman. Over 70 children live there and they are schooled until about 16 and then encouraged to enter university or pursue a trade. The kids were so warm and inquisitive and asked us to sing a song. Isabel, one of the English women in our group, suggested that everyone sing me 'happy birthday'. It was lovely and very unique. The Indian version goes on for ages in true Indian style :)
We are now in Ooty and certainly worked hard to be awarded a lovely hotel for the night. We had a 13.5 km extremely tough uphill climb with 36 hairpin bends (and about another 100 other bends). The climb was steep (about 70 degree incline for most of the way). Terence and I couldn't believe the unrelenting hill climb. I kept saying, 'we're not climbing up there, are we!'. Myself, Duncan and Terence made it to the top first and were so relieved. I have never endured such a tough cycling challenge in my life and I can't believe that we completed it. But we did! And now it seems like ages ago as we are now surrounded by the creature comforts of the hotel in Ooty which overlooks the bustling town below. Ooty is in the hills and is a lot cooler than the temperature in Mysore. It is a welcome relief and also a contrast in scenery - pine trees intermingled with eucalypts and whiffs of fresh eucalyptus oil graces us every now and then. Terence and spent the afternoon scouring the stores for the odd antique collectible. We walked to Mohans (a store that had been advertising its wares on billboards for the last 2 days). We finally got there and its doors were closed. So we had to settle for shopping on Commercial Street. Th best part was stumbling upon the local market where everythign and anything could be bought. Butchers chopping off goats heads; fish being scaled; vegetables such as aubergine, broccoli, beans presented so beautifully; flower seller displaying their long garlands of marigolds in circular piles. I love it! Oncw upon our time, we would have bought veges in this manner and perhaps it will come back with the rising popularity of produce and slow food markets. India is slow food at its best!
Curry is awaiting me .....
We arrived at Bangalore airport at 10pm. I was already exhausted from the flights and knew that we had another 5 hour wait before our cycling group arrived from the UK. We had sussed out some sleeper chairs in the airport and were going to take a few cat naps during the long wait. In the meantime, we had to withdraw money from the ATM and were having troubles with the one ATM in the arrivals hall. So I was advised to use one of the four ATMs outside. So off we shuffle to the ATM and manage to withdraw some money. Phew, our financials were sorted and now it was just a matter of resting. Well, not so!! They would not let us back inside the arrivals hall so we spent the next 5 hours waiting for the group outside the airport. 'Welcome to India!'
At 4am, we were transferred from Bangalore airport to Mysore - a 3 1/2 hour transfer. My eyes were popping out of my head by the time we had arrived.
Mysore seems like so long ago but was a fun, crazy introduction to a big Indian town of over a million people. Our first cycling day started and ended cycling through the hectic, non law-abiding traffic. There is so much craziness going on that you just have to brave it and force your way through the mayhem of tuk tuk drivers, street food stalls, motorbikes, animal carts, goats being herded and all the rest. It was so much fun but there is no way that an Australian tour company would expose its customers to such hectic traffic conditions. All the more reason to love India :)
The cycling so far has been entirely door-to-door and it has truly been a once-in-a-lifetime experience. There is no way that you would be exposed to the remote back roads that we have had the experience of cycling along. Each village has its own character and there is so much going on from clothes washing in the rivers and streams; the drying of sheets laid flat on patches of grass; thin but strong men steering their ox to pull carts laden with sand or bamboo or stones ; groups of women dressed in their colourful saris; men gathered to talk shop.
The colours of India are just so vibrant. I have never seen such colour rich markets especially the sections which sell dyes. The dyes are the brightest of bright colours - purples, yellows, greens, reds. They display them in bowls and then shape the powdered dyes in a conical shape. Simply stunning.
There has been a festival in this region throughout the past week and so we have been lucky enough to see colourful processions; cars/tucks/tuk tuks/bikes adorned with banana tree leaves and long garlands of marigold and other festivities.
Yesterday was my birthday and I was blessed and frightened by a morning sighting of a wild lone male tusker in Bandipur National Park. We cycled off from our accommodation into the National Park for 30+ kilometres. We happened to be cycling uphill and around a bend when we saw the elephant. He wasn't happy as he raised his trunk and trumpeted. I was scared beyond belief and the thought of being charged by an elephant on my birthday kept flashing through my mind. My legs pedalled so fast that they must have looked like a blur. My birthday ended with a visit to a local orphanage run by a Swiss woman. Over 70 children live there and they are schooled until about 16 and then encouraged to enter university or pursue a trade. The kids were so warm and inquisitive and asked us to sing a song. Isabel, one of the English women in our group, suggested that everyone sing me 'happy birthday'. It was lovely and very unique. The Indian version goes on for ages in true Indian style :)
We are now in Ooty and certainly worked hard to be awarded a lovely hotel for the night. We had a 13.5 km extremely tough uphill climb with 36 hairpin bends (and about another 100 other bends). The climb was steep (about 70 degree incline for most of the way). Terence and I couldn't believe the unrelenting hill climb. I kept saying, 'we're not climbing up there, are we!'. Myself, Duncan and Terence made it to the top first and were so relieved. I have never endured such a tough cycling challenge in my life and I can't believe that we completed it. But we did! And now it seems like ages ago as we are now surrounded by the creature comforts of the hotel in Ooty which overlooks the bustling town below. Ooty is in the hills and is a lot cooler than the temperature in Mysore. It is a welcome relief and also a contrast in scenery - pine trees intermingled with eucalypts and whiffs of fresh eucalyptus oil graces us every now and then. Terence and spent the afternoon scouring the stores for the odd antique collectible. We walked to Mohans (a store that had been advertising its wares on billboards for the last 2 days). We finally got there and its doors were closed. So we had to settle for shopping on Commercial Street. Th best part was stumbling upon the local market where everythign and anything could be bought. Butchers chopping off goats heads; fish being scaled; vegetables such as aubergine, broccoli, beans presented so beautifully; flower seller displaying their long garlands of marigolds in circular piles. I love it! Oncw upon our time, we would have bought veges in this manner and perhaps it will come back with the rising popularity of produce and slow food markets. India is slow food at its best!
Curry is awaiting me .....
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