We left Fort Cochin along a gravel bumpy road and set for another coastal ride The children were so welcoming as we cycled along the narrow dirt paths. Many were on their way to school and were so excited to greet us. Even the adults give us a 'welcome'. As we cycle south along the coast we pass fishing village after fishing village. Men sit there under shady canopies freeing their fishing nets from tangles. Their nets are super fine and it looks as though it would take an entire day to de-tangle. During one of our drink stops in a buzzing little town, we notice a guy on a motor bike with a giant camera lens pointing in our direction. It turns out that he is a journalist from a local newspaper and is keen to write a story about our trip. Many Keralans cannot understand why we are travelling by bike and the assumption is that we cannot afford to travel by any other means.
As we cycle toward Alleppey, the star5ting point for our backwater boat trip, we are surrounded by canals and waterways. The last 100m of our 60+ km cycle is off road. We carry our bikes down some steps and then straddle the canal. It is simply unreal! We arrive at our final destination with a welcoming fresh grape drink. Our home for the night is a gorgeous thatched hut surrounded by palms and other topical plants along the waterway.
Terence and I decide to take a tuk tuk into the main town of Alleppey. There are few tourists to be seen as this is where the locals shop. We find a couple of cotton shirts for Terence but in typical Indian fashion, one turns out to be polyester ...just what you need when its above 30 degrees Celsius and over 80 % humidity.
We leave Alleppey the next day after stocking up on alcohol for the night. Buying alcohol is quite an experience. The doors to the liquor store opened at 10am but men were waiting in line from at least 9.30am. When we arrived, they ushered us in through another door ...special treatment for foreigners. Beer and spirits of various sizes were stacked on wooden shelves in a cramped space. I grabbed a vanilla vodka for something new and off we went to meet our houseboat. They turned up right in front of our waterfront accommodation. Bikes and all were thrown on the more than comfortable converted rice barges. We spent the next 18 hours cruising the waterways which was nothing but tranquil and relaxing. Locals living by the waterside were observed doing their laundry. Women slap their laundry against the rocks ...not sure how clean the clothes get. It really makes me appreciate my washing machine and even the scrubbing brush which I have been using for hand washing.
The next morning, our bikes are taken off the boats and we set off for our longest and final cycle ride - 104 km in total. Although the sun is beating down and I have signs of prickly heat on my legs, it is well worth it as we hug the coastline. The water is looking bluer and the scene is so idyllic with tropical palm trees, fisherman, fishing nets, canoes and warm, welcoming children. Our lunch stop is out of this world and so off the beaten track. It is at a palm-tree lined beach called Thangassery, located near the city of Kollam (or Quillon). The sand is whiter than what we have seen so far and there are break walls every few hundred metres. The red and white light house in the distance may be the same one that was featured in Terence's latest surf magazine, 'Surfing Life'. Terence is the only one in the group who braves the water and goes for a body bash. Yes, there is surf. In fact, they are perfect surfing waves for me. Lunch is a treat too with mussels, prawns and calamari cooked as dry curries with chapati, pineapple yogurt curries, Porrama (a popular Keralan bread) and more. We certainly haven't gone hungry on this trip.
After enduring extremely hot and humid conditions and negotiating sections of highway (where there is always so much going on), we arrive at Varkala, a small hippie community with an amazing cliff top overlooking Varkala Beach, a great surf beach with a strong rip (not suitable for the beginner swimmer).
Yesterday morning, Terence was approached by a local guy as he checked out the surf. The guy happened to have a surfboard which Terence rented from him for 2 hours. His surf was cut short after snapping the nose of the board. The local guy was not happy, despite the fact that the board had previously been snapped in this spot (as the repair work was evident). After lots of arguing and disappointment, the surf cost Terence about $50 as the guy wanted him to pay for the damage. Despite the disappointing end to the morning, the day ended perfectly with an incredible sunset - a huge red ball setting at the horizon with the breaking waves in the foreground. We were comfortably positioned with our coffees at Cafe Del Mar and couldn't have been more chilled.
Yoga - a journey of finding out 'who you are' - is how may morning started. Four of us sat in a cool room in the upstairs of a building with a breeze coming through. All I could hear was the waves breaking and I could not have picked a more beautiful way to bid farewell to Kerala and India. I now understand why people come here seeing spiritual enlightenment. For me, it was just a taste but I certainly feel calm and light.
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