So much has happened since the last blog post. We left Ooty on Friday morning all kitted out in warmer layers. It was a fresh start as we cycled amongst pine trees, wattle and eucalypts (big, big eucalypts). Every now and then, the smell of eucalyptus oil would waft by. As we cycled mostly down hill, we were graced by the tea covered slopes of the Western Ghats (hills). Women walked along their roads in their colourful saris with woven baskets on their heads. The baskets were for carrying freshly picked tea. The tea is planted in a similar style to a patchwork quilt. Taller trees are interspersed amongst them to offer shade and the perfect growing conditions. As we get to the bottom of the 24 km descent, the layers of clothing are stripped off and the temperature soars. Welcome to tropical Kerala. Blankets of green, lush palm trees surround us. We stop for lunch and receive our first taste of Keralan food. Everything is cooked in coconut oil - tasty but not great for those who are watching their waist line.
After lunch, we say goodbye to our bikes,. For the first time during this trip, we have a bus tranfer to our destination of Guruvayoor. At first I think 'it would have been good to cycle'. However, after experiencing the crazy, mayhem traffic from the comfy seat of the van, I am glad that I'm not amongst it. Our driver is playing car dodge ball and has so many near misses, it's incredible!
Guruvayoor is a non-tourist town known for its temple. Keralans come to this temple on a pilgrimage and many sleep overnight. As we made our way past the shop-lined boulevard towards the temple, we passed many people sprawled on the pavement. Some of them slept on nothing more than a few sheets of newspaper. Vish (our guide) tells us that some of them can afford to stay in a hotel but choose to sleep on the pavement as a sign of devotion.
The highlights of Guruvayoor were the 2 short rides (one in the morning and one at night). Joseph, our ride leader, led us down narrow lane ways and pot-holed roads. I kept thinking to myself 'how do they discover these routes when they look as though they wouldn't even be on a map'. Our morning ride led us to the beach to see the fishing boats. As we cycled there, we passed many fish mongers riding or scootering along the little back streets and calling out to inform the neighbourhood that they had arrived to sell fish. The beach was great and gross. The fishing boats looked truly idyllic but we had to watch where we placed our feet to avoid stepping on human faeces. Disgusting, I know!! But hey, this is India! Our evening ride was at sunset and led us to the most beautiful bright yellow Orthodox Christian Church. The Church is devoted to St Dominic (Doubting Dominic). If I recall correctly, Dominic questioned that Jesus rose from the dead (hence the 'doubting').
We left Guruvayoor this morning and experienced the most fascinating day. Although the sun and humidity was relentless, it was well worth it. Almost the entire 86 km cycling journey was along quiet village back roads. Sometimes it feels like we are cycling through people's private daily lives. However, we are met with welcoming greetings - 'hello', 'good morning' and 'welcome'. After about 25 km, we hit the coast. Thick forests of palm trees surrounded us from here on. We were graced with the cliche banding palm tree over the sand. Terence climbed 3/4 of the way along one of them like a little monkey. This area is certainly wealthier as the saris are brighter, more beautiful and the homes are painted in vivid colours (lime greens, tangerine orange and sky blue). So many of the homes look like palaces but the smaller shanty-looking homes still seemed to be scattered in between.
Our first ferry crossing was before lunch, where we crossed the river on a barge-looking boat to Vypen Island. The sea stayed to our right and the shade and slight breeze took the edge off. However, every time we stopped the sweltering heat could be felt. For the first time in my life, I developed a heat rash above my knees. Thankfully, lunch offered us some respite. We stopped t the Baywatch Cafe (yes, Baywatch!) which overlooked Cherai Beach. The water wasn't the blue that we are used to in Oz but it was the bluest we have seen so far. We we went for a dip, however, I wasn't daring enough to submerge my head and risk picking up an infection. Terence went for a bit of a body bash though and seems to be fighting fit!
The last 30 km after lunch was lots of fun. We first skidded though sandy paths along the beach side. Many in the group fell off as they didn't gain enough momentum as they pushed through the sand. After about 10km, we took a left hand turn away from the beach and cycled through villages with the most diving estuary lined with tropical palm trees on both sides. Simply stunning!
One more ferry journey and we arrive in Cochin! We were packed on the ferry like sardines and there was hardly space to move as the bikes, people, motorbikes, cars and trucks all assumed their positions. I wondered whether we would cross the river safely but alas, we are here!
Wow, the vibe in Cochin is so chilled and this place is definitely set of for tourists. It is the first time that we have seen shops that cater to the Western palate ... clothing, jewellery, antiques and collectibles, linen, quilt covers. We had a quick look-see before dinner and already Terence has succumbed and bought an antique wooden spice bowl. Shopping is on the agenda for tomorrow and I have no doubt that it will be deadly on the credit card. Farewell to my bike for now as my feet prepare to pound the pavements.
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