Cycling from Montepulciano - La Foce - Bagno Vignoni - Pienza - Montepulciano

We put our detailed ' road book' to the test today. Terence was the map reader with his map startegically placed in a clear map bag on his handlebar. I was the bike computer reader and operator. This proved to be a difficult task as the bike comput has been temperamental - the magnet has been turning around the spoke and not registering any distance or the other bit attached to the frame has moved away from the magnet. Whatever malfunction is going on does not help the situation. Although we think that we may have figured it out. Despite the bike computer hiccup, the rest has been rather smooth sailing. The 'road book' has been quite easy to follow and we managed to get through day 1 without getting lost. We left Montepulciano quite early - 830 am seems to be 'early' in these parts. The sky was blue, air was dry and crisp and sun was shining. We could not have asked for better conditions. Although there is a direct route from Pienza, our road book took us off the beaten track. Soon after we set off we were riding on a gravel road. In Italy they call this 'strada bianca'. As we made our way along the gravel road towards The towns of Cassia and Contignano, we admired the fields that rolled on forever - wildflowers everywhere and windbreaks of cypress trees. It's hard to believe that you ride by castles and farm houses that have been here for almost an eternity. And the locals don't seem to blink an eye. Our first short stop was at Bagno Vignoni - natural thermal springs which is now a hydrotherapy/thermal spa retreat. A local told me that the pools were closed but we still managed to dip our feet in the warm thermal water in what looked like thermal troughs. We sat down with our feet soaking in the sulphur smelling warm water and admired the views of the valley and fortified towns in the distance. We left Bagno Vignoni and made our way to Pienza. The ride was magnificent. The road side red poppies turned into fields of dotted red. Photos cannot capture the scene, so you'll just have to believe me. Yellow canola flowers shower sections of land into what I would describe as a paintbrush that has been dipped in both yellow and green paint. Every farmhouse or agriturismo (farm stay) tells a thousand stories. They look so old and quaint and I wish that I could see what they looked like inside. The church bells are ringing upon our midday arrival in the renaissance town of Pienza - so romantic and so fantasy-like.Pienza is a UNESCO world heritage site with gorgeous cobblestone streets, salumi and pecorino cheese shops everywhere. We were overwhelmed by the smell of cheese. We have a small stash of pecorino that has been coming with us on our outings and tides us over when we are peckish. I enjoy an awesome tipico Italian lunch of panini with prosciutto, cheese and sweet tasting tomato with a macchiato and a apricot filled croissant. I asked for a ricotta filled croissant but they must have heard ' albicocca' rather than 'ricotta'. Oh well :) we chat to a German guy who is also traveling by bike. However, he is doing the hard yards! He has cycled from Germany with all his belongings in panniers. I take my hat off to him! After lunch, we wonder through the charming town, have a little look-see in the shops and take in the views of the Val d'Orcia. We have 22 Km of cycling before we are back in Montepulciano. As we get closer to 'home', we can see it perched up on the hill. It truly is stunning. I admire the old tone from the back of it and I especially love the church that sits in the valley below Montepulciano. I'll have to find out the name .... My eyes are failing me so time for me to call it a day. Tomorrow we are leaving Montepulciano for Cortona. As lame as it sounds, I am tempted to find Frances Mayes house in Cortona. I am reading her book at the moment and I'm thankful for her detailed stories of this magical place. Buona notte x

A warm up cycle to Monticchiello

I awoke this morning to the sound of turtle doves and swallows singing. The sun was shining through the open door sized window. I had to getup although the rest of the town was well and truly sleeping. We met Giacamo, a local who was instructed to introduce us to our bikes and go through the spiel. He seemed pretty casual but assured us that the cycling instructions were very easy to follow. It certainly didn't look like that when we studied them a few weeks ago. After the standard arguments of trying to set the wireless bike computer, we set off for a trial bike ride to Monticchiello. It was a bit scary when we set off as the cars just zipped by. I had to wonder whether we had made the right decision to cycle in Italy. However, as we followed the signs to Monticchiello, the roads became more remote and we were swept away by the Tuscan hills covered in a patchwork quilt of olive groves and vineyards. The area has been drenched by rain in the preceding few weeks, so the countryside is so green and the wildflowers are everywhere - pink, yellow, red, white, lilac. The dandelions are the biggest you have ever seen. Imagine all the wishes that you could make by blowing on just one of them .... Amongst the rolling hills is the odd sprinkle of farmhouse ...stone walls, gravel path lined in lavender bushes and shutters on the windows. After about 8 Km, we see Montichiello in the distance. The old town wall gives it away. We swoop down winding roads and then climb to the gorgeous 13th century medieval village in the heart of the Val d'Orcia, which origins lose themselves in the time. The town is tiny with only a handful of streets. We wonder through as quietly as possible as there is hardly a sound to be heard. A lovely old lady in a linen shop asked in Italian whether we were married. I said no, so she then suggested that we could return for a wedding in the town's church. Typical nonna ...'fancy not being married'. We stopped at the alimentari (corner store) for some bread and then started to make our way back to Montepulciano. Terence suggested that we stop at the of the hill and make our picnic lunch. We had bought a tomato, pecorino and a filetto of cured meat that looked sort of similar to prosciutto. As I focused on cutting the cured meat with the kick ass pocket knife, Terence had something else on his mind. I was about to start eating on my hard crust sandwich when a diamond ring appeared. I jumped out of my skin as was not expecting it. I was fairly sure that it would happen in Italy but my guess was Castellabate on the Cilento coast. Terence felt that it was the perfect setting and wanted to ask me whilst I was doing what I love most - exploring the world by bike. Wow, I am engaged ... feels surreal. Sadly, there is no one here to have a celebratory drink with us but nonetheless we are in our 'local' bar - Terence enjoying a beer and me enjoying rossi vino di Nobile. Sorry for the late posting - my iPad battery went flat yesterday.

Magical Montepulciano

Yesterday was another great day in Rome visiting the Colosseum, the Roman Forum and the Vatican Museum. The line for the Vatican Museum was fairly smooth sailing compared to memory from 15 years ago. I realize that my memories of Rome from then are very faded as the Vatican Museum and the Cistine Chspel was nothing like I remembered. Or maybe age makesbyou appreciate things more and take in the experience. The 3 highlights for us were experiencing our first stand-up coffee at a bar on Via del Corso and admiring the panoramic views of the entire city of Rome from the Garibaldi Monument. I am hooked on the concept of standing at a bar, ordering your espresso or macchiato (if you dare to have some milk!), sinking it back, standing shoulder to shoulder with a local and listening to all the passionate conversations going on. This has become our routine too ... We left Roma Trastevere this morning by train and made our way out of the city to greener pastures and fields of wild red poppies. The urban landscape soon became farmland and green rolling hills. The tall, cramped apartment buildings became farmhouses with terracotta roofs and old clay-colored rendered walls. The experience was great until the ticket lady arrived and fined us 10 € for not validating our ticket beforehand. So much for making an exception! We arrived in Chiusi and then found the bus to Montepulciano waiting outside. The bus driver seemed to take his time meandering around bends and allowing us to soak in the sheer beauty and lushness of this region. It is so picturesque and all we see is a jigsaw of various shades of green - grape vines perfectly aligned in rows, olive trees laid out in perfect symmetry, cherry trees fruiting, fig trees ready for the ripening. I love this place already!!! After a 20km gently rolling bus ride, we arrive in Montepulciano. The bus driver points up a cliff and indicates that our accommodation is up there. We enter a tunnel and find one lift after another until we get to the top. From there, we walk uphill some more. A sandstone arch lies ahead of us. It has just rained and the place had an airy mystical chill to it. As we walked through, it felt like we were stepping into a medieval fairytale. I cannot describe how breathtaking this place is. It oozes charm and everything is so charmingly old. Terence says that if won the lotto, he would buy a place here. I am not complaining! Like the author Frances Mayes, I can truly understand how her purchase of a 'holiday' home turned into home for the next 20+ years. We have walked the cobblestone streets of the old quarter and with every turn of the head, we are captivated - by the views, the architecture, the grand arched doors with brass handles that tell a story, the gorgeous boutiques, the azaleas and geraniums hanging from window sills, the local characters. It wasn't until we booked Osteria del Conte for dinner (thanks Chris Pearce for the recommendation! I have a reallly good feeling about it) that Terence remembered that it was our 2 year anniversary. Both of us forgot this morning ... doh! And what atruly memorable anniversary! As we walk down little alleys, we are blessed with the most incredible views of the valley below. It is picture perfect Tuscany. In fact, I never realized that it would be this stunning. It is clean and crisp and green, a real contrast to Rome which is grunge, dirty with an element of seediness. Don't get me wrong, I love Rome but this place is heaven. We are now sitting at a local enoteca (wine bar) passing the time and watching the day come to a close. The locals continue to enter the bar and gossip with the staff. We are the only customers so are savouring every second. We are sitting outside at the intersection of 3 narrow streets. The conversation of locals echoes and we privy to it all. Welcome to Italy where no conversation is kept quiet! Until tomorrow ...buona sera xx every second.

Roman Holiday

Relatively speaking, it was smooth sailing (or flying!) to Rome, although it was a close call in connecting with our Singapore to Rome flight. We had to run from our gate and held the plane up as we and our luggage were transferred. Rome Fiumincino airport was a bit of a loose arrangement. We were waived throughout Customs with a 'Go, Go!'. No stamp, no scan, niente!!! Leaving the airport with not a single security check seemed a little odd but nonetheless we made our way to the train station and caught our first regional train to Roma Trastevere. I had forgotten to print directions to our B&B (more like an apartment), so used directions that I had printed to lead us to 'Siciliana Connoleria' ( a store selling yummy sweet ricotta-filled Cannoli). After a short walk from the train station, we arrived at Suites Trastevere, rang the doorbell and Marco let us in indicating 'level 3'. Dragging our luggage up the marble staircase was tougher than expected so we crammed into the wrought iron cage lift with manually operated doors. We ate a second breakfast of pastries and Marco's nonna's chocolate cake and then mapped our Roman walking journey for the day. The start of our exploratory walk was at the Porta Portese flea market which sprawled for blocks and blocks. The roads are closed to allow for the market. In essence, it is stale and stalls selling mostly 'made in China' rubbish but the people seemed robe flocking. If I lived here, I would be buying the antique and mid century furniture. There was plenty on display! As we walked up Viale Trastevere, we admired the old apartment buildings with shutter-framed windows and terracotta pots filled with geraniums hanging from the window ledge. The buildings were showing signs of age but this only added character. The smell of coffee as you walk by is enough to lure you in every time. Little old Italian men sit outside with their espresso to shoot the breeze and 'passa tempo' (pass time). I found it funny that Marco advised us to catch a tram rather than walk, indicating that Romans would not be walking to the city centre. However, before we knew it, we were crossing Ponte Garibaldi (Graibaldi Bridge) to the Jewish Quarter. If you stuck to the main street (Via Arenula), you would have missed the experience. But with a right turn into Via Santa Maria di Planto, we were 'wowed' by the narrow cobblestone street, cafes and people socialising. We stopped for a quick lunch and watched as fathers tried to cope with the whinging toddlers, couples fought and others gesticulated with their hands. After 16 years since blast visit, nothing seems familiar to me. Did I visit the piazzas last time? Campo de Fiori is a lively piazza surrounded by cafes and then filled with a buzzing market in the centre. This was my favorite gathering place. The stalls were mostly produce and food including pasta of a million varieties, formaggio, cold meats (the biggest mortadella we've ever seen - about 3 ft long and 30 cm wide) and the fruit stalls selling cups of juicy cut mixed fruit. Piazza Navona - a lovely piazza with a fountain at it's centre. Art fills it's core and I have to admit that I was tempted by an oil painting of Rome. I'll think about it today. The lane ways surrounding the piazza are truly incredible. Black uneven cobblestones, apartments looming over with either laundry hanging across from an apartment building on one side to an apartment building on the other side. Bright pink bouganvillia sprawls it's way across walls and gives every building a facelift. I love it! Coming back to Rome has been a good thing for me. I don't recall being amazed by the grandeur and age of buildings during my last visit. The Pantheon is truly an incredible building both inside and out. The 9 m wide hole in the cupola allows sun and the other elements to enter the space within. The volume on the pitied of the building are so mammoth. You always 'up' in Rome as so much of the detail is staring at you from above. I am most impressed by the details at the top of the columns. I think these may be called italics. With every turn of a corner, we are in awe and delight - the Fontana di Trevi, the spanish steps with all and sundry sitting, reading, talking and just taking it all in. Our legs were aching but with each step, we came closer to something that could not be missed. And we could not have picked a better way to end our day than with an impromptu stumble upon St Peters Basilica. It wasn't on our list for the day but we were pulled towards it. It was 6.30 pm and so serene and peaceful. We were blessed to experience this scared place with minimal people and quietness. My camera battery was flat so I had no choice but to breathe it in and wonder how this came to creation. The marble statues with the finest detail down to the veins in the hands, the frescoes, the ornate ceilings with gold leaf sculptured flowers, the enormous cupolas. Walking back to Trastevere was tiring but satisfying. What a day! The only drawback so far is the food. Our restaurant recommendation in Trastevere called 'Ivo' was a let down - undercooked gnocchi, sour Ragusa and wine that barely passed as wine. It makes me realize how I am truly spoilt with quality Italian food at home. Today we plan to visit a deli and select a variety of charcuterie for our lunch. Surely we can't go wrong with that. Time to step back in time .... Ciao for now xo

From House Boats to Cliff Tops

We left Fort Cochin along a gravel bumpy road and set for another coastal ride The children were so welcoming as we cycled along the narrow dirt paths. Many were on their way to school and were so excited to greet us. Even the adults give us a 'welcome'. As we cycle south along the coast we pass fishing village after fishing village. Men sit there under shady canopies freeing their fishing nets from tangles. Their nets are super fine and it looks as though it would take an entire day to de-tangle. During one of our drink stops in a buzzing little town, we notice a guy on a motor bike with a giant camera lens pointing in our direction. It turns out that he is a journalist from a local newspaper and is keen to write a story about our trip. Many Keralans cannot understand why we are travelling by bike and the assumption is that we cannot afford to travel by any other means.
As we cycle toward Alleppey, the star5ting point for our backwater boat trip, we are surrounded by canals and waterways. The last 100m of our 60+ km cycle is off road. We carry our bikes down some steps and then straddle the canal. It is simply unreal! We arrive at our final destination with a welcoming fresh grape drink. Our home for the night is a gorgeous thatched hut surrounded by palms and other topical plants along the waterway.
Terence and I decide to take a tuk tuk into the main town of Alleppey. There are few tourists to be seen as this is where the locals shop. We find a couple of cotton shirts for Terence but in typical Indian fashion, one turns out to be polyester ...just what you need when its above 30 degrees Celsius and over 80 % humidity.
We leave Alleppey the next day after stocking up on alcohol for the night. Buying alcohol is quite an experience. The doors to the liquor store opened at 10am but men were waiting in line from at least 9.30am. When we arrived, they ushered us in through another door ...special treatment for foreigners. Beer and spirits of various sizes were stacked on wooden shelves in a cramped space. I grabbed a vanilla vodka for something new and off we went to meet our houseboat. They turned up right in front of our waterfront accommodation. Bikes and all were thrown on the more than comfortable converted rice barges. We spent the next 18 hours cruising the waterways which was nothing but tranquil and relaxing. Locals living by the waterside were observed doing their laundry. Women slap their laundry against the rocks ...not sure how clean the clothes get. It really makes me appreciate my washing machine and even the scrubbing brush which I have been using for hand washing.

The next morning, our bikes are taken off the boats and we set off for our longest and final cycle ride - 104 km in total. Although the sun is beating down and I have signs of prickly heat on my legs, it is well worth it as we hug the coastline. The water is looking bluer and the scene is so idyllic with tropical palm trees, fisherman, fishing nets, canoes and warm, welcoming children. Our lunch stop is out of this world and so off the beaten track. It is at a palm-tree lined beach called Thangassery, located near the city of Kollam (or Quillon). The sand is whiter than what we have seen so far and there are break walls every few hundred metres. The red and white light house in the distance may be the same one that was featured in Terence's latest surf magazine, 'Surfing Life'. Terence is the only one in the group who braves the water and goes for a body bash. Yes, there is surf. In fact, they are perfect surfing waves for me. Lunch is a treat too with mussels, prawns and calamari cooked as dry curries with chapati, pineapple yogurt curries, Porrama (a popular Keralan bread) and more. We certainly haven't gone hungry on this trip.
After enduring extremely hot and humid conditions and negotiating sections of highway (where there is always so much going on), we arrive at Varkala, a small hippie community with an amazing cliff top overlooking Varkala Beach, a great surf beach with a strong rip (not suitable for the beginner swimmer).
Yesterday morning, Terence was approached by a local guy as he checked out the surf. The guy happened to have a surfboard which Terence rented from him for 2 hours. His surf was cut short after snapping the nose of the board. The local guy was not happy, despite the fact that the board had previously been snapped in this spot (as the repair work was evident). After lots of arguing and disappointment, the surf cost Terence about $50 as the guy wanted him to pay for the damage. Despite the disappointing end to the morning, the day ended perfectly with an incredible sunset - a huge red ball setting at the horizon with the breaking waves in the foreground. We were comfortably positioned with our coffees at Cafe Del Mar and couldn't have been more chilled.
Yoga - a journey of finding out 'who you are' - is how may morning started. Four of us sat in a cool room in the upstairs of a building with a breeze coming through. All I could hear was the waves breaking and I could not have picked a more beautiful way to bid farewell to Kerala and India. I now understand why people come here seeing spiritual enlightenment. For me, it was just a taste but I certainly feel calm and light.

Coconuts and chilling out in Cochin, Kerala, INDIA

So much has happened since the last blog post. We left Ooty on Friday morning all kitted out in warmer layers. It was a fresh start as we cycled amongst pine trees, wattle and eucalypts (big, big eucalypts). Every now and then, the smell of eucalyptus oil would waft by. As we cycled mostly down hill, we were graced by the tea covered slopes of the Western Ghats (hills). Women walked along their roads in their colourful saris with woven baskets on their heads. The baskets were for carrying freshly picked tea. The tea is planted in a similar style to a patchwork quilt. Taller trees are interspersed amongst them to offer shade and the perfect growing conditions. As we get to the bottom of the 24 km descent, the layers of clothing are stripped off and the temperature soars. Welcome to tropical Kerala. Blankets of green, lush palm trees surround us. We stop for lunch and receive our first taste of Keralan food. Everything is cooked in coconut oil - tasty but not great for those who are watching their waist line.
After lunch, we say goodbye to our bikes,. For the first time during this trip, we have a bus tranfer to our destination of Guruvayoor. At first I think 'it would have been good to cycle'. However, after experiencing the crazy, mayhem traffic from the comfy seat of the van, I am glad that I'm not amongst it. Our driver is playing car dodge ball and has so many near misses, it's incredible!

Guruvayoor is a non-tourist town known for its temple. Keralans come to this temple on a pilgrimage and many sleep overnight. As we made our way past the shop-lined boulevard towards the temple, we passed many people sprawled on the pavement. Some of them slept on nothing more than a few sheets of newspaper. Vish (our guide) tells us that some of them can afford to stay in a hotel but choose to sleep on the pavement as a sign of devotion.
The highlights of Guruvayoor were the 2 short rides (one in the morning and one at night). Joseph, our ride leader, led us down narrow lane ways and pot-holed roads. I kept thinking to myself 'how do they discover these routes when they look as though they wouldn't even be on a map'. Our morning ride led us to the beach to see the fishing boats. As we cycled there, we passed many fish mongers riding or scootering along the little back streets and calling out to inform the neighbourhood that they had arrived to sell fish. The beach was great and gross. The fishing boats looked truly idyllic but we had to watch where we placed our feet to avoid stepping on human faeces. Disgusting, I know!! But hey, this is India! Our evening ride was at sunset and led us to the most beautiful bright yellow Orthodox Christian Church. The Church is devoted to St Dominic (Doubting Dominic). If I recall correctly, Dominic questioned that Jesus rose from the dead (hence the 'doubting').

We left Guruvayoor this morning and experienced the most fascinating day. Although the sun and humidity was relentless, it was well worth it. Almost the entire 86 km cycling journey was along quiet village back roads. Sometimes it feels like we are cycling through people's private daily lives. However, we are met with welcoming greetings - 'hello', 'good morning' and 'welcome'. After about 25 km, we hit the coast. Thick forests of palm trees surrounded us from here on. We were graced with the cliche banding palm tree over the sand. Terence climbed 3/4 of the way along one of them like a little monkey. This area is certainly wealthier as the saris are brighter, more beautiful and the homes are painted in vivid colours (lime greens, tangerine orange and sky blue). So many of the homes look like palaces but the smaller shanty-looking homes still seemed to be scattered in between.
Our first ferry crossing was before lunch, where we crossed the river on a barge-looking boat to Vypen Island. The sea stayed to our right and the shade and slight breeze took the edge off. However, every time we stopped the sweltering heat could be felt. For the first time in my life, I developed a heat rash above my knees. Thankfully, lunch offered us some respite. We stopped t the Baywatch Cafe (yes, Baywatch!) which overlooked Cherai Beach. The water wasn't the blue that we are used to in Oz but it was the bluest we have seen so far. We we went for a dip, however, I wasn't daring enough to submerge my head and risk picking up an infection. Terence went for a bit of a body bash though and seems to be fighting fit!
The last 30 km after lunch was lots of fun. We first skidded though sandy paths along the beach side. Many in the group fell off as they didn't gain enough momentum as they pushed through the sand. After about 10km, we took a left hand turn away from the beach and cycled through villages with the most diving estuary lined with tropical palm trees on both sides. Simply stunning!
One more ferry journey and we arrive in Cochin! We were packed on the ferry like sardines and there was hardly space to move as the bikes, people, motorbikes, cars and trucks all assumed their positions. I wondered whether we would cross the river safely but alas, we are here!
Wow, the vibe in Cochin is so chilled and this place is definitely set of for tourists. It is the first time that we have seen shops that cater to the Western palate ... clothing, jewellery, antiques and collectibles, linen, quilt covers. We had a quick look-see before dinner and already Terence has succumbed and bought an antique wooden spice bowl. Shopping is on the agenda for tomorrow and I have no doubt that it will be deadly on the credit card. Farewell to my bike for now as my feet prepare to pound the pavements.

Snooty Ooty, India

It is day 6 of our Southern Indian cycling holiday and it has not disappointed us one little bit. This is the first time I have had access to internet facilities, so I will try and summarise the blur of sensory overload which we have experienced in the past 6 days.
We arrived at Bangalore airport at 10pm. I was already exhausted from the flights and knew that we had another 5 hour wait before our cycling group arrived from the UK. We had sussed out some sleeper chairs in the airport and were going to take a few cat naps during the long wait. In the meantime, we had to withdraw money from the ATM and were having troubles with the one ATM in the arrivals hall. So I was advised to use one of the four ATMs outside. So off we shuffle to the ATM and manage to withdraw some money. Phew, our financials were sorted and now it was just a matter of resting. Well, not so!! They would not let us back inside the arrivals hall so we spent the next 5 hours waiting for the group outside the airport. 'Welcome to India!'
At 4am, we were transferred from Bangalore airport to Mysore - a 3 1/2 hour transfer. My eyes were popping out of my head by the time we had arrived.
Mysore seems like so long ago but was a fun, crazy introduction to a big Indian town of over a million people. Our first cycling day started and ended cycling through the hectic, non law-abiding traffic. There is so much craziness going on that you just have to brave it and force your way through the mayhem of tuk tuk drivers, street food stalls, motorbikes, animal carts, goats being herded and all the rest. It was so much fun but there is no way that an Australian tour company would expose its customers to such hectic traffic conditions. All the more reason to love India :)
The cycling so far has been entirely door-to-door and it has truly been a once-in-a-lifetime experience. There is no way that you would be exposed to the remote back roads that we have had the experience of cycling along. Each village has its own character and there is so much going on from clothes washing in the rivers and streams; the drying of sheets laid flat on patches of grass; thin but strong men steering their ox to pull carts laden with sand or bamboo or stones ; groups of women dressed in their colourful saris; men gathered to talk shop.
The colours of India are just so vibrant. I have never seen such colour rich markets especially the sections which sell dyes. The dyes are the brightest of bright colours - purples, yellows, greens, reds. They display them in bowls and then shape the powdered dyes in a conical shape. Simply stunning.
There has been a festival in this region throughout the past week and so we have been lucky enough to see colourful processions; cars/tucks/tuk tuks/bikes adorned with banana tree leaves and long garlands of marigold and other festivities.
Yesterday was my birthday and I was blessed and frightened by a morning sighting of a wild lone male tusker in Bandipur National Park. We cycled off from our accommodation into the National Park for 30+ kilometres. We happened to be cycling uphill and around a bend when we saw the elephant. He wasn't happy as he raised his trunk and trumpeted. I was scared beyond belief and the thought of being charged by an elephant on my birthday kept flashing through my mind. My legs pedalled so fast that they must have looked like a blur. My birthday ended with a visit to a local orphanage run by a Swiss woman. Over 70 children live there and they are schooled until about 16 and then encouraged to enter university or pursue a trade. The kids were so warm and inquisitive and asked us to sing a song. Isabel, one of the English women in our group, suggested that everyone sing me 'happy birthday'. It was lovely and very unique. The Indian version goes on for ages in true Indian style :)
We are now in Ooty and certainly worked hard to be awarded a lovely hotel for the night. We had a 13.5 km extremely tough uphill climb with 36 hairpin bends (and about another 100 other bends). The climb was steep (about 70 degree incline for most of the way). Terence and I couldn't believe the unrelenting hill climb. I kept saying, 'we're not climbing up there, are we!'. Myself, Duncan and Terence made it to the top first and were so relieved. I have never endured such a tough cycling challenge in my life and I can't believe that we completed it. But we did! And now it seems like ages ago as we are now surrounded by the creature comforts of the hotel in Ooty which overlooks the bustling town below. Ooty is in the hills and is a lot cooler than the temperature in Mysore. It is a welcome relief and also a contrast in scenery - pine trees intermingled with eucalypts and whiffs of fresh eucalyptus oil graces us every now and then. Terence and spent the afternoon scouring the stores for the odd antique collectible. We walked to Mohans (a store that had been advertising its wares on billboards for the last 2 days). We finally got there and its doors were closed. So we had to settle for shopping on Commercial Street. Th best part was stumbling upon the local market where everythign and anything could be bought. Butchers chopping off goats heads; fish being scaled; vegetables such as aubergine, broccoli, beans presented so beautifully; flower seller displaying their long garlands of marigolds in circular piles. I love it! Oncw upon our time, we would have bought veges in this manner and perhaps it will come back with the rising popularity of produce and slow food markets. India is slow food at its best!
Curry is awaiting me .....